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2007 Base Roadster, "Stock" for the most part, but with lots of interior illumination changes
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2,416 Posts
Hi squilliam, If you find your brand new valve cover gasket is leaking, I advise to replace the gasket again, this time adding dabs of gasket maker on BOTH SIDES of the gasket in the areas indicated. Immediately install the valve cover after applying the gasket maker, then let sit overnight before starting the engine.
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2007 Base Roadster, "Stock" for the most part, but with lots of interior illumination changes
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2,416 Posts
Hickhaven makes an excellent point. That heater in a closed-up room can easily cause death. Those are meant for well ventilated conditions which of coarse renders them partially effective. Same technology, same rules, same precautions with a typical patio heater, hence they are exclusively used outdoors.
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2007 Base Roadster, "Stock" for the most part, but with lots of interior illumination changes
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2,416 Posts
I honestly think I forgot to tighten one of the bolts.
I just can't confidently say it is the cause of all of the crud found all over the front.
The pictures don't show all the crud you describe. Did you clean it off before taking the pictures?

My base Sky has a lot of crud on the front of the engine. Much of it is old serpentine belt material that stuck on an oily surface. I cleaned the engine compartment but I could not comfortably get the washer-wand in that area. The worst (maybe all) of the crud formed from a leaking valve cover gasket that I have since replaced. I am leaving the crud alone for now. Maybe one day a repair like a water pump for example, will improve access to the area for a better cleaning. But I am surely leaving well enough alone for now because everything is working fine and my garage floor remains dry.
 

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2007 Base Roadster, "Stock" for the most part, but with lots of interior illumination changes
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2,416 Posts
Nice new head! I remember when you replaced it last year.

Here is my original 2.4L head with 121,000 miles of use. At least there was no built-up crud on the head. It was just stained honey-colored and I left it that way.
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I did have some crud built-up on the valve cover itself but I cleaned it off.
Maybe you recall, I had my valve cover off to replace the original dry brittle leaking gasket. Oil was leaking outside on the engine and filling the spark plug cavity, second from left.
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2007 Base Roadster, "Stock" for the most part, but with lots of interior illumination changes
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2,416 Posts
I noticed oil lines along the gasket surface.
If you did not do this last time, be sure to add a dab of gasket maker where the rubber gasket makes a turn in the "Z" axis in the areas shown. Apply it between the head and gasket, and between the valve cover and gasket. Oil always leaks in these areas, both on the valve cover and the oil pan, regardless of vehicle.
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2007 Base Roadster, "Stock" for the most part, but with lots of interior illumination changes
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2,416 Posts
BlackCatCustom modified one of their existing Sky gauge face templates for me and my 2.4L. They did a great job, following my instruction perfectly. They had me approve it before making it. I recall it costing me $135.

In my case, I wanted the least amount of glare possible considering the change to a bright LED back-lighting, so I removed kilometers, the word SKY, the x1000 on the tach, and the 1/4 1/2 3/4 on the fuel gauge. Per my request, he also went with the aqua lens for the odometer, done to match my daylight LED interior lighting conversion.
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I did the radio to match the odometer.
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All done to match the daylight LED interior conversion. The only lighting remaining original dark orange are the steering wheel controls. The radio buttons, door panel controls, fog light, HVAC pod, mirror down-lighting, added floor & glove box lighting, all are daylight LED, a beautiful match to the navy blue metallic exterior. It looks exceptional at night, especially under the street lights.
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2007 Base Roadster, "Stock" for the most part, but with lots of interior illumination changes
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2,416 Posts
Last year I replaced my front and rear shocks. The front shocks were new loaded assemblies which naturally included the springs. The rear shocks were only the shocks. I bought a pair of manual spring compressors and used them for the first time in my life. It is not hard or dangerous. The ones I bought HERE have pins that prevent them from coming off unexpectedly.

When the job was done, I disassembled my original front shock assemblies utilizing the spring compressors again, to sell the old but good parts.

CLICK HERE for my video on replacing the front shocks.

CLICK HERE for my video on replacing the rear shocks.
 
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