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Discussion Starter #1
So I have an 07 redline 2.0T (Obviously if its a redline) manual and today it has started acting a bit odd. It just stops. I will be driving, I get a chime, gas light comes on, all gauges reset. It starts right back up again sometimes (Seems as though if I am going fast enough the momentum just restarts it cause its manual.) As of right now there are no codes even though it has happened 4 times since the codes wee cleared.
Earlier in the day it was hooked up to a friend snap-on scantool and received the following information. This is coming from a picture, so some information is missing as I can read it in the picture. **** indicate missing information. I can't read the actual code number for the first code.
"Knock sensor (KS) Module performance (Symptom 00)Test failed * DTC Clear, Test not passed since power up"
"P2106? Throttle Actuator Control (TAC) system - Forced Engine Shutdown Symptom 00 - Test Failed Since DTC Clear, History DTC, test not passed Since Power Up, Warning Indicator Requested"

Anyone experienced this? Know the cause/solution?
 

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I think your P2106 is actually a P2105.

What condition is your battery in? Flaky electrical issues usually point to a bad battery. I would also check for loose fuses. Have you had the ignition switch recall done?
 

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Discussion Starter #3
Might by, thats why I posted the ? after it.
Thanks so much for the fast reply. I have only had it 4 years or so, so I will contact the dealer Monday to ask about the ignition switch. It has also been being a bit bitchy at times with starting. Have to turn the key 10-20 times to get it to start sometimes. At times 1/2 way though the crank it just stops. With a bit of luck that will resolve the issue!
Again, thanks for the fast reply, and I will keep you and the rest of the forum posted.
 

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Oops. Yes he did.

So the clutch pedal position sensor could be an issue for the non-starting.
 

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Discussion Starter #8
Oops. Yes he did.

So the clutch pedal position sensor could be an issue for the non-starting.
That was the original idea for quite a long time (Its been doing it for like years) as I would just keep releasing the clutch and applying it, try again, release and re-apply, try again, and eventually it would start. Except this year I started trying just turning the key and releasing over and over (Trying to keep my foot as still as possible to troubleshoot that switch) and often it starts. Yea, its possible its the clutch petal position sensor, but i think step one would be to see if the ignition recall was done and get that taken care of first. I was also thinking about just overriding the clutch petal position (Or even just putting in a manual override switch) to test/troubleshoot it. I find that switch greatly overpriced.
 

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When you say "won't start" I am assuming that the starter motor isn't operating. I also agree that you have likely ruled out the CPP sensor as a problem.

The ignition switch problem as I understand it is not really electrical, so would not contribute to starting issues. It is primarily mechanical in that it allows the switch to easily rotate out of run, killing the engine.
 

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Have you checked that all of the fuses and relays are seated in their sockets? I would go so far as to push them in to see if they were loose, then pull them out and re-insert them.
 

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Discussion Starter #11
When you say "won't start" I am assuming that the starter motor isn't operating. I also agree that you have likely ruled out the CPP sensor as a problem.

The ignition switch problem as I understand it is not really electrical, so would not contribute to starting issues. It is primarily mechanical in that it allows the switch to easily rotate out of run, killing the engine.
Then by the seems of that, the "forced engine stop" issue I was having is likely not related to the ignition switch. unless it rotates out of run for a microsecond and rotates back into run. Because when the car does stall when the gauges are done moving around, its back in the "on" position. I am not really familiar with the issue and exactly what it does.
 

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That is what I think.

First, the ignition switch recall and its original complaints never to my memory mentioned problems starting the car.
Second, turning the key to off is a normal shutdown, and would not trigger a code or a message.
 

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Discussion Starter #13
Yea, and when it happens I get messages like (Please dont quote me on exact wording) "Check traction system" and "Traction control off" and "Engine power reduced" and another I can't remember what it says but "XXX is off" where XXX is 3 capital letters. probably should have mentioned this in original post.
 

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Probably "ESC Off".

Have you mentioned how old your battery is?

You should check the battery cable connections for tightness and corrosion.

There are also a couple of grounds that have been a problem, one on the right side frame rail near the hood hinge, and another under the console arm rest.
 

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Discussion Starter #15
Thats what my buddy keeps thinking it is. Just a momentary power cut. We tightened both the battery connections really good as they were a bit loose, and there super tight now, but we really needed to tighten them. He has suggested to get some lead strips to help tighten the connections better and clean them up good.
Battery is only 3 years old or so, and its only summer driven (6 months up here) and in the winter the cable is disconnected and its in storage. Unheated storage mind you, but still stored.
A ground under the console arm rest? Seems like a strange place for one. I will look up how to get to it and see if I can check it out.
Thanks a million for all the help/advice.
 

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If you recall blinking on the onstar buttons on your mirror. Or if the buttons are out completely and you've never turned off onstart.... Then It's a badness with your onstar module. In my case a 9 vote drain.

I have a 2.4L where the gauges reset and bounced around - and where the transmission went clunky - and the cause was onstar.
 

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Discussion Starter #17
If you recall blinking on the onstar buttons on your mirror. Or if the buttons are out completely and you've never turned off onstart.... Then It's a badness with your onstar module. In my case a 9 vote drain.

I have a 2.4L where the gauges reset and bounced around - and where the transmission went clunky - and the cause was onstar.
That is interesting. Although I haven't seen any lights, I do have a voltage drain on my system. few days not driving and the battery is dead. Mind you this has been happening ever since I got it before this problem started with it stalling. How does one disable onstar?
 

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If you have a "drain" on the system, it is a "Current" drain, not a Voltage drain. Volts do not drain. Amps do drain.
 

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That is interesting. Although I haven't seen any lights, I do have a voltage drain on my system. few days not driving and the battery is dead. Mind you this has been happening ever since I got it before this problem started with it stalling. How does one disable onstar?
My mechanic did it for me ... So I don't know the details. You might find it in advaced search. You can't remove it completely because it's on the LAN. My guess is that the procedure is to get the serial number .... then call OnStar and they turn it off.
 

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Just because your battery is 3 years old, doesn't mean it can't be bad. You're right on the cusp of when batteries start to go bad. I had 2 batteries that lasted less then a year prior to the one I have now. My Mustang also had an issue with a bad battery. Also check the ground strap on the driver's side, front of the engine. Pull it off, clean it and retighten it. A battery can also be "good" in our cars and not be putting out enough power and will cause electrical issues. Seeing as how your battery goes dead every couple of days, I would say it's your battery....
 
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