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Owch. That will hurt a bit more then I was hoping for.
Just wanted to double check a couple of things.. This is an intermittent problem. After this happened a couple of times, I drove likely 75 KM with no issues, and now its back to being a common thing. Last I tested, it wouldn't idle for even 3-4 min. So based on the fact it is intermittent, including all the additional information previously mentioned, how sure are we this is the ECM? Not trying to question anyone ability, I just don't wanna spend what will amount to about $750 after all is said and done on like a 50% chance kinda thing.
Or maybe I should ask. If it was YOUR sky. what would you do?
First, it is real easy for me to spend your money, and real difficult to definitively troubleshoot through the internet, so question away. I don't think anyone will be offended, and I know that I'm not. i will feel bad if you replace the ECM and it doesn't fix the problem, but not bad enough to pay for it!

There are seven codes associated with the knock sensor. i should have posted this earlier, but i got lazy.
08-09-105 Knock Sensor.jpg 08-09-106 Knock Sensor.jpg
If you had other codes, there are other things to check, but i still read that this is the ECM.

You could do some of the other testing if you have a DMM with the correct functions, and that would rule out the knock sensor and wiring. You could also invest $15 or so to replace the sensor.

Either of those is quite reasonable to do, and you may find a different problem, but unless there is something going on that you either can't see or haven't told us, my money's on the ECM.
 

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Try cleaning some of the critical ground connections. Can't hurt to take the ECM apart. Clean all the contacts (pin connections) with an emery board. Or use some spray cleaner for electrical connections. Remove and clean well the ground wire at the firewall and the right side engine block. Do the same for the ground near the e-brake (under the black plastic center console cover). You’re cleaning oxidation off the contacts...they won’t necessarily look bad. This won’t cost a dime, just a little time! If this doesn’t fix the problem, then start spending your money. Intermittent no start is no fun. Been there!
 

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Discussion Starter #43
First, it is real easy for me to spend your money, and real difficult to definitively troubleshoot through the internet, so question away. I don't think anyone will be offended, and I know that I'm not. i will feel bad if you replace the ECM and it doesn't fix the problem, but not bad enough to pay for it!

There are seven codes associated with the knock sensor. i should have posted this earlier, but i got lazy.
View attachment 112863 View attachment 112864
If you had other codes, there are other things to check, but i still read that this is the ECM.

You could do some of the other testing if you have a DMM with the correct functions, and that would rule out the knock sensor and wiring. You could also invest $15 or so to replace the sensor.

Either of those is quite reasonable to do, and you may find a different problem, but unless there is something going on that you either can't see or haven't told us, my money's on the ECM.
Damn, I was hoping to get you to pay for my repair.. lol. I am kidding.

I have a couple of inexpensive multimeters, and access to at least one good one. What setting would it require? Seems just volts and ohms?
Do you know where I would find this knock sensor, and what it may look like? I am not a car guy by any stretch of the imagination. I do have some basic understanding and can do some stuff, but locating sensors I only barely understand would be hard on my own. I do know enough on how to test stuff though; at least when given basic directions such as in the manual you provided.
I know I have said this before, but just want to again. Thank you very much for all the help you have provided so far.
 

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i do not know where the sensor is, but i am certain that my manual does. i will post some additional information this evening unless someone with specific knowledge posts first.

There is only one check that requires anything other than a DC voltmeter, and that is the test for the sensor itself. For that you need a frequency meter or oscilloscope. Since you do not have a code for that one, I do not think there is any reason to do it.
 

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Discussion Starter #45
i do not know where the sensor is, but i am certain that my manual does. i will post some additional information this evening unless someone with specific knowledge posts first.

There is only one check that requires anything other than a DC voltmeter, and that is the test for the sensor itself. For that you need a frequency meter or oscilloscope. Since you do not have a code for that one, I do not think there is any reason to do it.
That would be awesome. Thanks.
 

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This is going to be a dumb question...do you have any mods? The reason I'm asking is P0324 can also (according to the pic John provided of the service manual) be caused by "engine load greater then parameters". So in other words, if several sensors see something than what the parameters are set for, it will throw this code. Did you add a turbo and not have the car tuned after? Did you add an IC and HFC and not have the car tuned? Did you add meth injection and not have it properly tuned? Just some common questions. If you added a CAI, IC tubing....smaller stuff, it should be okay, but bigger power adders, or several mods that will add combined larger power, this could be your issue.
 

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This is going to be a dumb question...do you have any mods? The reason I'm asking is P0324 can also (according to the pic John provided of the service manual) be caused by "engine load greater then parameters". So in other words, if several sensors see something than what the parameters are set for, it will throw this code. Did you add a turbo and not have the car tuned after? Did you add an IC and HFC and not have the car tuned? Did you add meth injection and not have it properly tuned? Just some common questions. If you added a CAI, IC tubing....smaller stuff, it should be okay, but bigger power adders, or several mods that will add combined larger power, this could be your issue.
That is a condition for running the test, not for setting the code.
 

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So I have an 07 redline 2.0T (Obviously if its a redline) manual and today it has started acting a bit odd. It just stops. I will be driving, I get a chime, gas light comes on, all gauges reset. It starts right back up again sometimes (Seems as though if I am going fast enough the momentum just restarts it cause its manual.) As of right now there are no codes even though it has happened 4 times since the codes wee cleared.
Earlier in the day it was hooked up to a friend snap-on scantool and received the following information. This is coming from a picture, so some information is missing as I can read it in the picture. **** indicate missing information. I can't read the actual code number for the first code.
"Knock sensor (KS) Module performance (Symptom 00)Test failed * DTC Clear, Test not passed since power up"
"P2106? Throttle Actuator Control (TAC) system - Forced Engine Shutdown Symptom 00 - Test Failed Since DTC Clear, History DTC, test not passed Since Power Up, Warning Indicator Requested"

Anyone experienced this? Know the cause/solution?
 

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So I have an 07 redline 2.0T (Obviously if its a redline) manual and today it has started acting a bit odd. It just stops. I will be driving, I get a chime, gas light comes on, all gauges reset. It starts right back up again sometimes (Seems as though if I am going fast enough the momentum just restarts it cause its manual.) As of right now there are no codes even though it has happened 4 times since the codes wee cleared.
Earlier in the day it was hooked up to a friend snap-on scantool and received the following information. This is coming from a picture, so some information is missing as I can read it in the picture. **** indicate missing information. I can't read the actual code number for the first code.
"Knock sensor (KS) Module performance (Symptom 00)Test failed * DTC Clear, Test not passed since power up"
"P2106? Throttle Actuator Control (TAC) system - Forced Engine Shutdown Symptom 00 - Test Failed Since DTC Clear, History DTC, test not passed Since Power Up, Warning Indicator Requested"

Anyone experienced this? Know the cause/solution?
I've had a similar experience on a SL2 and it turned out to be the battery. The ground lug on the battery, INTERNALLY it was intermittently breaking contact. There was no external damage to the battery to see, I found that forcefully wiggling the cables while they were attached brought the problem to light. Good luck, modern electrical systems seem to run by PFM and when gremlin shows up ugh!
 

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Discussion Starter #52
This is going to be a dumb question...do you have any mods? The reason I'm asking is P0324 can also (according to the pic John provided of the service manual) be caused by "engine load greater then parameters". So in other words, if several sensors see something than what the parameters are set for, it will throw this code. Did you add a turbo and not have the car tuned after? Did you add an IC and HFC and not have the car tuned? Did you add meth injection and not have it properly tuned? Just some common questions. If you added a CAI, IC tubing....smaller stuff, it should be okay, but bigger power adders, or several mods that will add combined larger power, this could be your issue.
No mods. All stock.
Sorry its taken me a bit. So I am at the point I am going to being it to a mechanic. He wants to try a few things before replacing the computer and isn't gonna charge me much.
I do thank you for the help and I did manage to eliminate the grounds (They are cleaned very well) and leaned quite a few things. And thank you for helping me find a lower priced computer then the dealer would have charged me. Regardless of what happens I will post you all an update.
 

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Discussion Starter #53
I've had a similar experience on a SL2 and it turned out to be the battery. The ground lug on the battery, INTERNALLY it was intermittently breaking contact. There was no external damage to the battery to see, I found that forcefully wiggling the cables while they were attached brought the problem to light. Good luck, modern electrical systems seem to run by PFM and when gremlin shows up ugh!
You know.. THAT actually makes sense. The first time it happened we cranked down the positive terminal and it fixed it for a bit... How similar was the problem? Similar like car stalling? Or Similar like car stalling, occasionally throwing codes, telling you traction control and ESC needs to be serviced?
 

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Hope you get to the bottom of it quickly. Glad you got to the grounds before spending a whole lot of money. Too bad that didn’t solve it. I was lucky that I found that to be my solution, just took time and patience.
 

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All this talk about grounds and ground connection on the battery. Have you checked the battery itself. On my Lexus if the battery gets low or looses a cell, I have all sorts of symptoms and none of them include hard starting. Modern electronics seem to be very voltage sensitive, unlike a starter that will start the car at 10V (one dead cell) if the engine is in good condition.
 

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I've had a similar experience on a SL2 and it turned out to be the battery. The ground lug on the battery, INTERNALLY it was intermittently breaking contact. There was no external damage to the battery to see, I found that forcefully wiggling the cables while they were attached brought the problem to light. Good luck, modern electrical systems seem to run by PFM and when gremlin shows up ugh!
Very intersting idea, and it could explain a lot.

One other possible problem with a broken internal battery connection is the risk of explosion. I had a battery in a Bravada that had a cracked plate. It didn't cause a problem until one day i turned the key to start the engine and the crack generated an arc that ignited the hydrogen gas in the top of the battery. The explosion split the battery in half and blew acid everywhere. To this day i can't stand where I am in line of sight with a battery when an engine is being started.
 

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I had this same problem, my mechanic said it was common for the pins on the body control unit to corrode. causes erratic current. remove the main connector use toothbrush to clean. plug it back in and out ten times to clean socket.
I have to do this procedure every 6 months or so.
 

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You can do it faster by spraying it with DeOxit available on EBay. Used on antenna connections on HAM antennas that live 40 feet up in the atmosphere, rain, snow, etc. and stay there for 10 or more years years.;
 
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