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ArikDahn, the pic you posted seems to be a thumbnail. Way too small to be able to read anything, anyway.

Can you try again?
Wow, you're right. How the heck did that happen? I will re-up when I get home. Working noon-midnight today.

EDIT: Okay I re-upped the image. It looks good now. Probably something about how vB deals with png's. Once I converted to jpg, seems we're good. Thanks for letting me know.
 

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In regards to the connector and the harness, would it be advisable to maybe use electrical tape to hold this together better? Or is there another way to prevent this issue?
 

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Discussion Starter #24
Just noticed your question Markzabin

In regards to the connector and the harness, would it be advisable to maybe use electrical tape to hold this together better? Or is there another way to prevent this issue?
There it really no other way to fix this problem. With the small wires and conne tier pins vibration alone causes the problem. You could try putting some thin foam rubber around it but eventually it's going to have a problem anyway.
 

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Thanks for posting this very valuable info, Rick!

Re: the photos. You said that the first shows the location of the C-100 connector. Stupid me! I can't identify any components in the photo to tell where it is!

Could you please give a verbal description of the location? LH side of motor? near firewall? Or what?

Sorry for the silly question.

Thanks again!

Yogi
 

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Discussion Starter #26
Hi Yoki
No question is silly :blush: The connector is under the bracket the holds the fuse box. The easiest way to get to it is take the inner wheel well out then it's right there.
 

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Hi Yoki
No question is silly :blush: The connector is under the bracket the holds the fuse box. The easiest way to get to it is take the inner wheel well out then it's right there.
OK. Thanks, Rick!

Yogi
 

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similar problems, but a question

I have been having similar problems, Limp mode, codes that are all over the place from fuel rail to throttle position sensor, cam shaft timing sensors...ect. My question is, how did you know which wires on the C100 harness to jump? I noticed you only jumped a few of the wires. I plan on working on rewiring this tomorrow.
Thanks
 

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I had it in the shop with a mechanic for 2 1/2 weeks, before he said "I don't know, find someone better then me." I am sure he would have checked the charge system and battery... I hope.
 

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Aethelos, I have met some pretty dense mechanics...So dense in fact that once, when I blew an engine, I decided to do it myself even though I had never taken on something at that level by myself before because the last time I had a mechanic do it I felt a team of highly trained NASA Chimps would have had a better result.

Have the charging system and battery looked at by someone to specifically rule out that possibility.
 

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Discussion Starter #32
I have been having similar problems, Limp mode, codes that are all over the place from fuel rail to throttle position sensor, cam shaft timing sensors...ect. My question is, how did you know which wires on the C100 harness to jump? I noticed you only jumped a few of the wires. I plan on working on rewiring this tomorrow.
Thanks
Hi Aethelos, sorry I hadn't gotten back to you I've been real busy. Let me find my schematic and I'll get back to you.
 

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Darn I cant find my original schematic

Hi Aethelos, sorry I hadn't gotten back to you I've been real busy. Let me find my schematic and I'll get back to you.
I'm looking in ALDATA right now and will get back to you but in my opinion I would pull each wire out of both sides of the connector and do them all one at a time. If you look at the pictures at the very start of the thread you could probalby match the wire colors up to see the ones I changed,
 

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Discussion Starter #34
Update on C100 connector

Well the car started doing some strange things so decided to take a look a the C100 connector again. Below is what I found so it was time to just get rid of it all together and hard wire them. I pulled all the wires and soldered them together. As you can see because there are so many wires I made 3 runs instead of one big one.
 

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There is a plastic check valve on the evap solenoid valve hard line that prevents back pressure flow into the gas tank. It ruptures at a limit beyond normal boost pressure. The check valve failure will accelerate evap solenoid valve malfunction and permit boost pressure to enter the gas tank when both parts fail. If you are running high boost, the check valve will need to be replaced with a part that will reliable at the increased pressure.
 
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