Saturn Sky Forum banner

1 - 14 of 14 Posts

·
Registered
Joined
·
23 Posts
Discussion Starter · #1 ·
'07 redline, I've owned it since last Nov. I think my first post here mentioned how different the brakes felt compared to my other more modern cars. Hard, firm, they engaged very early in the pedal travel, and never felt mushy, though they also never felt particularly sensitive either. didn't take much to get them to lock up. today I was driving sporty over a portion of the road that suddenly turned shitty. I was bringing my speed down at the entrance to a turn and felt the tires lock up like they do when you're skipping over uneven road while breaking. the pedal suddenly got much looser. The car was in competition mode It now moves about 2" further before engaging and has a somewhat mushy feeling, though it will still bring you to a stop and lock up if you pushed it far enough. I'm planning on having it checked out but thought I'd ask here if theres a Sky specific issue at play.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
4,279 Posts
Nothing Sky-specific that I know of, but it sounds dangerous. Could be one of a number of things, including 1) dying master brake cylinder; 2) leaking brake lines; 3) worn and fractured brake pad ... probably more that I'm not thinking of. Get it seen to and don't drive it otherwise.
 
  • Like
Reactions: Vibro

·
Registered
Joined
·
52 Posts
Agreed it sounds like it could be a serious leak somewhere. Don't drive it if you can check it yourself, or be very cautious.
On my TA I had a master cylinder fail, it would be OK braking but get soft, then one day it just all the way to the floor - I was at a stoplight already. So I could pump it up to stop, but it would not hold pressure for more than a second or 2, just good enough to drive to my mechanic carefully (with a hand ready on the E-brake in case).
 

·
Premium Member
Joined
·
1,592 Posts
Mine felt kind of like that when one of the caliper bolts fell out.
 
  • Like
Reactions: Vibro

·
Registered
Joined
·
23 Posts
Discussion Starter · #7 ·
had it looked at today. no leaks, loose bolts, cracked pads, codes, dirty fluid, or anything else funky. the car was gone over by three mechanics, no issues found. I'd love for that to be the end of it, I know my car - something happened and the pedal now moves about 2" farther than it used to. not sure what to do next
 

·
Registered
2008 RL
Joined
·
54 Posts
had it looked at today. no leaks, loose bolts, cracked pads, codes, dirty fluid, or anything else funky. the car was gone over by three mechanics, no issues found. I'd love for that to be the end of it, I know my car - something happened and the pedal now moves about 2" farther than it used to. not sure what to do next
Do you work on your own cars?

A lot of members here dont, so there is not much advice they can follow, except keep searching for other mechanics.

If you are a Do-It-Yourselfer, the world is your oyster as far as advice.

Me, if I am doing it myself, I would start with a full flush and bleed. After verifying the reservoir is not low. It is way past overdue anyways. While I am down there, it puts me in close visual contact with the pads and flex hoses. Not just for leaks, but bulging and flexing as the pedal is applied.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
445 Posts
It’s been many years, but I remember a customer having a similar problem. We found a problem with the internal seals in the master cylinder, it was leaking internally. That was back in the day and we used a rebuild kit and replaced the seals in the master cylinder.
 

·
Super Moderator
Joined
·
6,726 Posts
It’s been many years, but I remember a customer having a similar problem. We found a problem with the internal seals in the master cylinder, it was leaking internally. That was back in the day and we used a rebuild kit and replaced the seals in the master cylinder.
If this is the problem, master cylinder seal failure is fairly easy to detect by holding firm on the brake pedal and checking for the pedal slowly moving down. Pedal movement indicates a leak, and if there is no evidence of brake fluid leaking out f the system it has to be leaking back past the master into the reservoir.

@Vibro : Are you actually locking-up during braking, or is the ABS engaging? If you are actually locking-up there is a problem with the ABS.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
23 Posts
Discussion Starter · #11 ·
If this is the problem, master cylinder seal failure is fairly easy to detect by holding firm on the brake pedal and checking for the pedal slowly moving down. Pedal movement indicates a leak, and if there is no evidence of brake fluid leaking out f the system it has to be leaking back past the master into the reservoir.

@Vibro : Are you actually locking-up during braking, or is the ABS engaging? If you are actually locking-up there is a problem with the ABS.
no sir, it was just an observation of conditions when I noticed the change and probably has nothing to do with it. currently, the situation is that the brake pedal engages further into the pedal's travel than it did previously. the brakes still work well. the pedal holds position when pressed. if I pumped them a time or two the pedal will engage approximately where it did. no codes.
 

·
Super Moderator
Joined
·
6,726 Posts
no sir, it was just an observation of conditions when I noticed the change and probably has nothing to do with it. currently, the situation is that the brake pedal engages further into the pedal's travel than it did previously. the brakes still work well. the pedal holds position when pressed. if I pumped them a time or two the pedal will engage approximately where it did. no codes.
It sounds from that like your fluid was low and you ingested some air. Bleeding the brakes would be a good idea.
 

·
Premium Member
Joined
·
884 Posts
no sir, it was just an observation of conditions when I noticed the change and probably has nothing to do with it. currently, the situation is that the brake pedal engages further into the pedal's travel than it did previously. the brakes still work well. the pedal holds position when pressed. if I pumped them a time or two the pedal will engage approximately where it did. no codes.
It sounds from that like your fluid was low and you ingested some air. Bleeding the brakes would be a good idea.
Absolutely what John said. A brake bleed is a far simpler, cheaper, and faster possible solution.

If that doesn't solve it, then perhaps the master cylinder.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
1,052 Posts
One would think this is a leak somewhere.
With no visible fluid to be found- it could be an internal master cylinder problem.
However after 3 mechanics looked over things and found nothing wrong.

We know how important brakes are... to longer life for the owner.
Pedal travel just recently after spirited driving. Has the pedal itself been looked over?
I'm not sure of what adjustment can be made mechanically- retaining return spring.

It's not an electrical thing with no codes found, or wheel sensors for the ABS system.
It's not a hub problem or caliper/rotor issues. It could be weak rubber hoses pulsing under
pressure. IF the fluid is fresh, there is no blockage to the system itself, it could be the
proportioning valve between the front & back systems. I had this happen to the ex-wife's car
and as much as I wanted to get rid of her- this was not the way go.

I had a problem with my clutch in the secondary slave cylinder on the 3000 GT once.
Down the pedal would go, until I had to raise it with my foot to engage the next gear.
We don't have a slave cylinder on our braking system that I know of- so the hunt continues.

Your only as safe as you feel with your brakes. Brake bleed is a start for air in the system.
A full flush and refill might work but if not you will know that is taken care of.
I just had mine done brakes feel great now- as I was traveling quickly on Sunday in
the Michaux State Forest Run with heavy switch backs, hairpins turn among other items
such as big trees and rocks on both side with my brakes at less than 50% on the rears
without any lock ups what so ever. My brakes are the next thing on the BIG list of To Do
projects after trans cooler lines and fluid flush. About $ 800 -$1000 bills.

* However- according to one I must LAND THIS PLANE...now.
F that time buzz the tower Goose. No Mav this is not a good idea- just say'n
This is Ghost Rider requesting a fly by. Negative Ghost Rider the pattern is full of sh*t.
Son- you're writing checks your body can't cash. You don't own.. that plane the tax payers do.
Two of your snot nose jockeys did a fly by at over 400 knots. I want some butts.
Here is a sidewinder for your tail pipe-mm Splash 4... the rest are bugging out.


LAC
 
1 - 14 of 14 Posts
Top