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If you look at the second picture you can see the tab that is bonded to the back of the face plate. Then look carefully at that area from the front in the third picture and you can see the tab. The HVAC surround holds it in once it snaps into place.

Actually, if you put something on the back to create some surface area, Velcro is also an option. I am using it to secure my replacement center console.
 

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Discussion Starter #22
Ok I see what you did. I hadn't thought about having the Pi and faceplate all as one piece but that would work just as well for my situation. I do like how the tab just sits behind the air control panel. How tough was getting the fitment to be snug on top and bottom without and wiggle/rattle?
 

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The fit of the face plate is tight top to bottom, and actually wedges slightly into place. I don't have any rattles yet, but I am thinking about putting a layer of cloth tape on the front of the tab just in case.
 

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Discussion Starter #24
Been a little busy with other things over the last week but have had a little progress on the project. I have hit a strange snag tonight in that my output sound is not coming through the car speakers but seems to work fine on my bench speakers. I'm not much of an audio expert but the Raspberry Pi Amp2 should have no problem outputting sound through the car speakers.

For those that may be able to see the issue I'm having here are some specs:

HiFiBerry AMP2: https://www.hifiberry.com/shop/boards/hifiberry-amp2/
60 total Watts on 2 channels to be used with 4 ohm - 8 ohm speakers

Sky Speakers:
Per Crutchfield we have 2 ohm speakers in the doors and 4 ohm speakers in the rear (Non-Monsoon)

I'm not sure if the 2 ohm vs 4-8 ohm range is the issue but I would only think it would effect volume

I have the (4) input wires R Front/Rear and L Front/Rear connected to the 2 channels separating L and R (Stereo)

I do have a couple update pictures to show below
 

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Are you sure that you are properly connected to the (+) and (-) wires that go to each speaker? I don't know what else would be different.
Even if there was some crazy impedance mismatch you would at least get sound.
 

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Just as a check, you DON'T have Monsoon, right?
Good point. The audio connections are the same for the two (except for level) but there is a control connection for the Monsoon amp that has to be connected to power for the amp to power up. No connection, no sound.

Although there is a previous comment that it is not a Monsoon system.
 

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Would it matter? The harness connections are the same.
Not sure but I do know that when I had my head unit put in when ordering the adaptor to go from the radio to the factory harness there was one version for a car equipped with the Monsoon system and one for one without it. Something about the factory amp is all I can recall.

This may not even be related to the current discussion but figured I'd throw it in. LOL
 

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Just as a check, you DON'T have Monsoon, right?
Not sure but I do know that when I had my head unit put in when ordering the adaptor to go from the radio to the factory harness there was one version for a car equipped with the Monsoon system and one for one without it. Something about the factory amp is all I can recall.

This may not even be related to the current discussion but figured I'd throw it in. LOL
It wouldn't matter for the audio connections, but a Monsoon system has a connection to turn the amplifier on. So TS has a good point in that if it is Monsoon, and that control connection is omitted, there will be no sound.
 

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Discussion Starter #30
No monsoon system in my car. I pulled it all out and retested on the bench, which worked. I plan on rewiring it tonight because mismatched +/- was all I could think of too but it looked like I had everything correct. Thanks for the clarification on the impedance mismatch I was pretty sure but not positive. I am using the GM LAN wire harness and followed the wire labeling on the instructions. Will update tonight.
 

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No monsoon system in my car. I pulled it all out and retested on the bench, which worked. I plan on rewiring it tonight because mismatched +/- was all I could think of too but it looked like I had everything correct. Thanks for the clarification on the impedance mismatch I was pretty sure but not positive. I am using the GM LAN wire harness and followed the wire labeling on the instructions. Will update tonight.
+/- Doesn't matter for producing sound (just need correct phase for correct stereo separation).

I would get a 9V battery and push short wires into each of the speaker wire pairs at the radio connector, then touch the other ends to the battery. If you get clicking/thumping/fritzing, then you know the speaker wires are connected through and that you have the correct ones identified.

The HifiBerry *is* a class-D amp, so it's possible that it has an issue with really low impedance (although I would think it unlikely). Have you checked the amp specs?

UPDATE: Hmm. Just looked on their web site and it states:
The Amp2 is designed to work with all speakers or 4-8 Ohm impedance. It supports sample rates from 44.1-192kHz (16-32bit).
 

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Discussion Starter #32 (Edited)
I like th 9V battery test idea, I'll give that a go also. Yeah the specs mention 4-8ohm impedance I would still think I should get something out of the 4ohm rears even if it has an issue with the 2ohm sides? After the 9V battery test I'll connect just the L/R rear speaker cables and see what happens before trying the full setup.

UPDATE:
Tried the 9V battery test and got no static or sounds from the speakers... now I'm stuck again. The only thing I can think of is the wire harness is either wired wrong or bad.
I have the LC-GMRC-LAN-03 harness
 

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Discussion Starter #33
Does anyone have a wiring schematic for the harness plugs that go into the stock radio? I've been looking around online but keep getting shady website links. I want to do a pin to pin check and compare the corresponding aftermarket harness to the radio plugs.

So far I've tested with a 9V battery, the intended setup and I tried my 3.5mm phone output through a mini amp. All nothing. The speakers should work even with the car off right, independent of car power? This is baffling me...
 

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Notice that the same pins do double duty for Monsoon/non-Monsoon, and since you do not have a Monsoon system the speaker connections go straight to the speakers.
Notice also that each speaker has its own (+) and (-) connection.
 

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Discussion Starter #35
You're awesome John, much appreciated. Fortunately/unfortunately everything lines up correctly. As a test I disregarded the harness and put Dupont jumpers from the +/- pins on the car plugs directly to my mini amp. Still no sound. Plugged the old radio back in for sanity purposes and it works... I have no idea how to troubleshoot further...
 

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John has a skill set that is amazing. I need him to return to Florida to install a backup camera in my mirror. No installer is capable of this. Come on down John.
 

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You're awesome John, much appreciated. Fortunately/unfortunately everything lines up correctly. As a test I disregarded the harness and put Dupont jumpers from the +/- pins on the car plugs directly to my mini amp. Still no sound. Plugged the old radio back in for sanity purposes and it works... I have no idea how to troubleshoot further...
You're welcome, sorry it hasn't helped yet.

I can only think of two possibilities here:
1) You are mixing up the speaker wires and using the (+) from one with the (-) of another.
2) You do actually have a Monsoon system, and aren't getting anything because the amp is not powered.

Two things to do:
1) Double-check the RPO codes in the glove box for a UW5 or a UQ3
2) Connect an ohm meter across the (+) and (-) terminals you are using to measure the impedance.
 

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Discussion Starter #38
Well I learned something new today. I thought the Monsoon system was only paired with the 6 CD changer (which I knew I didn't have) but I did find a UQ3 on my glove box. I'm no audiophile but I would not have guessed I even had a sub in the car from the way the audio quality seems.

Once again, thanks John for the invaluable info and ideas. I'm mostly relieved that the problem is clear now. So, is the solution as simple as sending the battery's accessory power to the amp? Looking at the connector wiring diagram I see a "Radio On Signal" and "Remote Radio Control Signal". Pins 1&2 are also L/R audio signal + which I don't understand.

It's sad that I would have preferred to not have the Monsoon now haha.
 

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Well I learned something new today. I thought the Monsoon system was only paired with the 6 CD changer (which I knew I didn't have) but I did find a UQ3 on my glove box. I'm no audiophile but I would not have guessed I even had a sub in the car from the way the audio quality seems.

Once again, thanks John for the invaluable info and ideas. I'm mostly relieved that the problem is clear now. So, is the solution as simple as sending the battery's accessory power to the amp? Looking at the connector wiring diagram I see a "Radio On Signal" and "Remote Radio Control Signal". Pins 1&2 are also L/R audio signal + which I don't understand.

It's sad that I would have preferred to not have the Monsoon now haha.
The head units are generally considered to be pretty weak, and changing it generally is considered to be the biggest step-change in sound improvement.

I too am glad that the mystery has been solved, and I think that ultimately you will be happier with the Monsoon than without it. You will have to reduce your output to prevent over-driving the amp.

Pins 1 & 2 are L & R XM audio (+), with pin 9 as the (-) for both channels.

Pin 3 is the 12-volt signal from the head unit to turn on the amp. Any time there is 12 V on that wire the amp will be on, and it gets its power straight from the fuse block, so control it carefully to avoid a dead battery.

Pin 15 Remote Radio Control mutes the amp when it sees 12 V. I left it un-connected.
 

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Discussion Starter #40
The head units are generally considered to be pretty weak, and changing it generally is considered to be the biggest step-change in sound improvement.

I too am glad that the mystery has been solved, and I think that ultimately you will be happier with the Monsoon than without it. You will have to reduce your output to prevent over-driving the amp.

Pin 3 is the 12-volt signal from the head unit to turn on the amp. Any time there is 12 V on that wire the amp will be on, and it gets its power straight from the fuse block, so control it carefully to avoid a dead battery.
I may have a question about over driving the amp when I get to that point, not sure what output needs to be reduced. I'm excited to test this out, I have an extra channel on my relay that I can use to control the signal to the amp so that will work perfectly. Will report back my findings. Thanks again for all the great explanations! :cheers:
 
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