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Discussion Starter #1
I purchased inside door panels and wire harnesses from a later-made Sky. They include the power door lock switches that my early-made Sky lacks.
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Working first on the passenger side, I installed the replacement door wire harness, then plugged in every item for a compatibility check. Everything worked except the power door lock switch. The switch illuminated but I got no action. So I replaced the switch with the one from the other door, hoping it was just a bad switch. But I got the same "no action". :(

I then examined the original and the replacement wire harness and see that the replacement has an extra white wire as shown here. My original connector is on the right, the replacement with extra wire is on the left.
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I then compared the replacement to the car's connector. This confirms the extra white wire. The car connector on the right is also missing the extra white wire.
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This was supposed to be a plug-n-play upgrade. I obviously have more work to do, but I don't know where to turn. I am hoping you master-minds can help me.

I assume I have to extend the extra wire from each door harness to the BCM, and if so, what is the best way to thread the wire(s)? If the BCM has that connection in-use, is there a better place to tap that wire?

I also wonder if I can simply jumper the wire to another wire in the picture above.

I would greatly appreciate some sound direction.
 

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You screwed up...this has nothing to do with the white wire...u should have never touched those wires. The only correct thing u did was purchase the interior door with the switch...there is a harness that attaches to the switch from the inside...it is only 2 wires. You will need to purchase that. Then u will need extra wire and run those wires through the rubber hose where u open the door and then through the firewall....there is a hole in the firewall where the battery is....find it and run it down to your BCM. It is the BCM that controls the left and right door opener....look for the schematic of the BCM...If my memory is correct...cannot swear to this but it can be numbers 16 or 17....that should be an easy find. Cannot go into my car now and locate but put all those wires back if u can.

I never did the driver's door...because of the distance and pain to run wires from that side of the car. It really is not needed because u control that manually.

Since u have the harness that came with the door panels...u should have the harness that fits into the switch....that's all u need. Throw the rest away.
And the BCM does not have those ports in use.
 

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.....
I would greatly appreciate some sound direction.
The white wire does connect the switch to the BCM. The driver's switch connects to X1-7 and the passenger's switch to X1-6, but functionally it doesn't matter which goes where. The other side of each switch is connected to ground.

The more logical approach is to mount the switch in the center of the car somewhere (mine is in the small panel that holds the airbag indicator) and run wires to the BCM and to ground from there. But of course that does not give you a "stock" look.
 

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Discussion Starter #4
And the BCM does not have those ports in use.
I am beyond an alternate approach to connect, committed to utilize what I purchased. But from your statement (I quoted here) it sounds like the BCM has those two ports unused so I will have to figure a method of attachment.

The white wire does connect the switch to the BCM. The driver's switch connects to X1-7 and the passenger's switch to X1-6, but functionally it doesn't matter which goes where. The other side of each switch is connected to ground.
I will temporarily jumper the white wire to X1-6 (I need research which position that is) and see if the switch wakes up. Assuming so, I will figure a way to fish the wire from the car's connector to the BCM (for both doors).

Yes, I want the car to look stock in this regards.

Thanks for the help guys! I will report back.
 

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Good Luck...but fish everything through the rubber hose when u open the door and through the firewall...the wire runs under the carpet into the BCM

You are now in possession of 2 2006 discontinued doors....I believe Robo may be looking for one...
 

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Discussion Starter #6 (Edited)
The plot thickens. The driver-side bulkhead connector scheme is not compatible. My original utilizes two connectors, the new replacement utilizes only one as shown. I will be dissecting the new harness to extract the 3 power door lock switch wires with the associated switch connector and fish them somehow in with the others inside the rubber boot and preformed plastic trays to get from the door to under the hood.

I wonder if I can splice 2 of the 3 wires into my existing harness inside the driver door and then fish just one wire through like I am dealing with on the passenger side. I assume the 3 wires are ground, light bulb power, and BCM. I will learn more during dissection.
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One thing I did good tonight was replacing the dim orange incandescent bulbs inside the two power door lock switches, to my LED-lit interior lighting scheme.

I understand better now why the comments on doing the power door lock switches differently. This has become a lot more work than I bargained for. Had I known, I would have lived without the door lock switches. But I am invested and committed now. I'll get there, just taking the long hard way.
 

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Start on the passenger side....much easier and u will get experiential learning...perhaps. Just too many wires u r playing with...
 

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Discussion Starter #9
Start on the passenger side....much easier and u will get experiential learning...perhaps. Just too many wires u r playing with...
Yeh, my plan is to do the passenger side first. I think I have to take out the battery to fish that wire through properly. And we all know what that involves. :(
 

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Discussion Starter #10
John and Mike,

Here is my BCM connector.
I have 2 questions.
Q1) Which positions are X1-6 and X1-7?
Q2) How did you connect to an unused pin?
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Looking at the side of your car, just above the battery and to the left, there should be a 1"x1" piece of sound deadener. A silver square. Remove it. There is a 1/4" hole there that they were talking about above. The hole will face the side of the car, not the engine compartment.
 

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Discussion Starter #12
Looking at the side of your car, just above the battery and to the left, there should be a 1"x1" piece of sound deadener. A silver square. Remove it. There is a 1/4" hole there that they were talking about above. The hole will face the side of the car, not the engine compartment.
AH, I found it (circled in yellow)
GREAT tip! Thank you.
I did not realize that was what they were referring to.
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To take up where Ghost left off...the rubber is just right of the battery and about one inch down on the fire wall. This is embarrassing. I tried to remove the blue plastic bezel which hides the ports....I could not remove it. Did not wish to go further because the unit broke free from pins which connect it to the car. You are now on your own. Good Luck. I did mine at least 10 yrs ago. A much more daring owner then. LOL

I did not use that square.
 

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Discussion Starter #14
I tried to remove the blue plastic bezel which hides the ports....I could not remove it. Did not wish to go further because the unit broke free from pins which connect it to the car. You are now on your own. Good Luck. I did mine at least 10 yrs ago. A much more daring owner then. LOL

I did not use that square.
Hi Mike,

Are you referring to how you connected to the BCM? The blue plastic bezel you are referring to, is that the retainer that locks the electrical contact pins into the BCN connector?

In the end, how did you connect to unused BCM connector pins? This might be my biggest challenge.
 

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John and Mike,

Here is my BCM connector.
I have 2 questions.
Q1) Which positions are X1-6 and X1-7?
Q2) How did you connect to an unused pin?
I continue to be amazed that people will undertake technical projects with no documentation.

The attached document may help you, the part you are interested in starts on page 10.

You do not have an "unused pin" you have an empty pin location, so you need a pin or, as noted in the document, a substitute.
 

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Discussion Starter #16 (Edited)
I continue to be amazed that people will undertake technical projects with no documentation.
In my defense, I bought the two door panels and wire harnesses from one of the most reputable forum members here who sells second hand Sky parts. I won't mention his name as I don't want to embarrass him. He told me this is a plug-and-play installation. We were both surprised to learn of the incompatibility.

But that is water over the dam. I have to move forward with the "now challenging" approach.

Thank you JohnWR for the document. It is "Very Clear" what I need to do. Next up is purchasing terminal #15359541.

For cleaner wiring, I would like to add a terminal into the passenger side (vehicle-portion) bulkhead connector shown. Would your service manual have the ID number of this connector? There are two terminal sizes, one for high-amp, the other for low-amp. I need the low-amp. This connector is common regardless of model year.
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Unfortunately the driver side of the car is going to be more home-made-ish.
 

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In my defense, I bought the two door panels and wire harnesses from one of the most reputable forum members here who sells second hand Sky parts. I won't mention his name as I don't want to embarrass him. He told me this is a plug-and-play installation. We were both surprised to learn of the incompatibility.

But that is water over the dam. I have to move forward with the "now challenging" approach.

Thank you JohnWR for the document. It is "Very Clear" what I need to do. Next up is purchasing terminal #15359541.

For cleaner wiring, I would like to add a terminal into the passenger side (vehicle-portion) bulkhead connector shown. Would your service manual have the ID number of this connector? There are two terminal sizes, one for high-amp, the other for low-amp. I need the low-amp. This connector is common regardless of model year.
View attachment 114020
Unfortunately the driver side of the car is going to be more home-made-ish.
John is absolutely one of a few guys on here that just understands our cars electronics better than anyone else I know...you are in great hands with him.

On an unrelated note, are you willing to sell your original door panels and are they in good shape?
 

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On an unrelated note, are you willing to sell your original door panels and are they in good shape?
The only thing better than a Sky without the power lock switch would be a Sky without the power door locks at all. And the only thing better than that would be a Sky with manual windows, but I don't think such a beast exists.
 

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The only thing better than a Sky without the power lock switch would be a Sky without the power door locks at all. And the only thing better than that would be a Sky with manual windows, but I don't think such a beast exists.
While I understand your logic I cannot say that I agree with it.
Solstices, yes. Skys, no. At least, not from the factory.
There is no reason that manual operators from a Solstice could not be installed.
 
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