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Discussion Starter #41
Well, I finished tonight, installed as cleanly as the passenger side. I did need that wider terminal blade because the bulkhead connector with the extra white wire used wide blades.

The project was a lot more work than I originally anticipated, but now that it is finished, we are happy to have the PDL switches.

Thank you everyone who helped me through this journey. I would not have made it without all your guidance.
 

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Discussion Starter #43 (Edited)
It is the door lock harness which is key to this feat.
Correct!

Having the supporting wire harnesses made the wiring effort tolerable. Without them, the wiring would have been so much harder to get done. Just as important was having the 3 different connector terminals so I could attach my extra PDL control wire to each door properly at the bulkhead connectors, a wide blade terminal at the driver, narrow blade at the passenger, and also the two tubular terminals for the BCM. Using them (crimped and soldered) reduced my over-all effort along with increased reliability and also repairability if ever needed. Now my doors are 100% stock so if I ever needed to replace a door, there is no funny business inside it to deal with, whether myself or a body shop.

As part of the over-all project, I converted my PDL switches to the same LED illumination, so with exception to the steering wheel control buttons, all my illumination is now the same daylight LED and it looks FANTASTIC !!!

Just a side note, with exception to the driver window control switches, the floor and glove box lighting, every 12V LED that I installed throughout my interior, required "brightness reduction". I accomplished this by painting the dome of the LED with a black Sharpie permanent marker, about 4 coats to get it solid black. Doing so created indirect lighting within each switch. The adjustment made the right amount of brightness.
 

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Correct!

Having the supporting wire harnesses made the wiring effort tolerable. Without them, the wiring would have been so much harder to get done. Just as important was having the 3 different connector terminals so I could attach my extra PDL control wire to each door properly at the bulkhead connectors, a wide blade terminal at the driver, narrow blade at the passenger, and also the two tubular terminals for the BCM. Using them (crimped and soldered) reduced my over-all effort along with increased reliability and also repairability if ever needed. Now my doors are 100% stock so if I ever needed to replace a door, there is no funny business inside it to deal with, whether myself or a body shop.

As part of the over-all project, I converted my PDL switches to the same LED illumination, so with exception to the steering wheel control buttons, all my illumination is now the same daylight LED and it looks FANTASTIC !!!

Just a side note, with exception to the driver window control switches, the floor and glove box lighting, every 12V LED that I installed throughout my interior, required "brightness reduction". I accomplished this by painting the dome of the LED with a black Sharpie permanent marker, about 4 coats to get it solid black. Doing so created indirect lighting within each switch. The adjustment made the right amount of brightness.
I have no verve to start with the glove box....LOL
 

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Discussion Starter #45
I have no verve to start with the glove box....LOL
I found the glove box the easiest lighting addition of all. I already had the floor lights and so I tied it into that circuit which is right there by the glove box.

  • First pull down the glove box to access the top of it.
  • Then solder a wire on each side of a domed 12V LED and insulate the connections with shrink tubing.
  • Then drill an appropriate sized hole in the top of the glove box for the LED to fit in snugly. Locate it towards the rear of the car (more towards the passenger seat) to light up more of the glove box interior. If you mount it deep in the glove box, the light could get covered up by stuff.
  • Secure the LED and wires to the glove box by drilling two holes to accept a wire tie close behind the LED, then push the LED into the primary hole and secure the two wires right behind it with a wire tie.
  • Connect the two wires to the floor lighting circuit and you are done.
  • Make sure you have the right length of wire to accommodate the movement of the glove box.

If one day you have to remove the glove box to perform some kind of repair, just cut the wire tie and push the LED out from the top of the box.
 

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I found the glove box the easiest lighting addition of all. I already had the floor lights and so I tied it into that circuit which is right there by the glove box.

  • First pull down the glove box to access the top of it.
  • Then solder a wire on each side of a domed 12V LED and insulate the connections with shrink tubing.
  • Then drill an appropriate sized hole in the top of the glove box for the LED to fit in snugly. Locate it towards the rear of the car (more towards the passenger seat) to light up more of the glove box interior. If you mount it deep in the glove box, the light could get covered up by stuff.
  • Secure the LED and wires to the glove box by drilling two holes to accept a wire tie close behind the LED, then push the LED into the primary hole and secure the two wires right behind it with a wire tie.
  • Connect the two wires to the floor lighting circuit and you are done.
  • Make sure you have the right length of wire to accommodate the movement of the glove box.

If one day you have to remove the glove box to perform some kind of repair, just cut the wire tie and push the LED out from the top of the box.
I do have a life....it will not start in the glove box. :D:giggle:
 

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Boy! This thread certainly drifted fast!
 
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