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Discussion Starter #1
I replaced the clamps on the drivers side with T-Clamps. That was a pain getting it on the throttle body (?) again. I have not taken it out to test it yet, so we will see how I did.

I've read all of the threads on this subject but still have a few questions.

1. How does one know how tight to tighten these clamps? Can I crack something if tightened too much?

2. I found a hard jelled "puddle" of oil in the hose. I cleaned it out, but what is that telling me?

3. I have the t-bolt clamps to replace on the hoses at the IC. I see that they have spring-like thing that is attached to the existing clamps. Can I just clip those wires and just replace with the t-bolt?

Thanks
 

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First, I wouldn't bother changing the I/C hose clamps. Don't think I've ever heard of anyone have those pop off.

As for T-bolt clamp tightness, I had the exact same question when I changed mine over! Never got a good response either :) I just tightened them to where the spring around the bolt was about half compressed.

Lastly, the oil in the pipe. Was that the passenger side pipe? I hope so, otherwise you have a lot of oil through the intake! I would guess (hope) that it's your check valve that's become gummed up and is letting oil vapor from the valve system into the intake. Take a look at this (and read through to the second page): Why & where you should/shouldn't run an Oil Catch Can (OCC) on an LNF kappa - Pontiac Solstice Forum
 

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Discussion Starter #5
Took the car out today. Was able to sustain 16 psi, probably the highest I have seen on this car.

Not sure I will replace the clamps at the IC. Maybe if I get a tune.

I did do the ole suck and blow test on the check valve and it worked as designed. The nipple is broken, the valve is just kind of hanging on. I will probably replace with the one from DDM at some point soon.
 

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At least epoxy the nipple back on now. With that broken, you are getting unmetered air into the car which will make it (at least) run less efficiently.

The oil in the tubes its troubling also. Could be your turbo bearings are wearing (and leaking oil).
 

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Hair spray is a trick people use to make sure the hose doesn't fly off. It makes the coupler very easy to install but after it dries it create a bond that almost doesn't even need a clamp.

As far as tightness goes, just a light resistance on the nut is fine.
 

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Discussion Starter #8
The turbo was rebuilt a couple of months ago so maybe the oil is evidence of a now old problem. Is the IC still a candidate for replacement? Thinking of all the oil sitting in it.
 

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Ahh, so that could well explain the oil then. The intercooler has a (rubber) drain tube underneath to capture moisture - you can undo one end of the tube and drain any oil from it if they didnt do that before. See part 34 below...

 

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Huh...I wondered what those rubber lines were for on the intercooler. Learn something every day. Funny because I'm seeing oil on the passenger side charge tube but my catch can is looking clean. I was wondering if it could be a turbo issue too so maybe this old turbo is due for a rebuild as well.
 

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Huh...I wondered what those rubber lines were for on the intercooler. Learn something every day. Funny because I'm seeing oil on the passenger side charge tube but my catch can is looking clean. I was wondering if it could be a turbo issue too so maybe this old turbo is due for a rebuild as well.
When the GXP/Redline first were introduced, those two rubber tubes were not a part of the intercooler. Shortly thereafter, there was a brief hiatus in turbo production, and when it restarted, the intercoolers had grown those rubber lines on the bottom.

:thumbs:

.
 

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The turbo hose clamp on the drivers side keeps slipping. I tighten it down, and then stomp down on the turbo. I can see the boost run up on the gauge, then drop off. When I get home - the hose is coming off. See photos. I bought a quality clamp from DDM, but it seems to me the plastic air hose is too slippery to hold the rubber hose tight. What can I do to make the rubber hose stick and not slide off?
113637
113638
 

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You need to replace the worm clamp with the DDM T-clamp that you say you bought. It's likely that the worm clamp has failed and is not clamping tightly any more.
 

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If you use the better clamp, you wont have an issue. Just make sure to push the hose all the way to the second ridge and put the clamp on between the ridges. And be sure to first trim off the block of rubber on the end of the hose that goes over the factory clamp. A sharp knife will work.
 

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Do you mean push the hose right up to the ridge shown in this photo? The hose is not to be pushed over this ridge, just up against it, right?
113640
 

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I had trouble with the clamp on this hose at the throttle body failing (probably due to being over tightened). I replaced them with t-clamps. No problems with them now. The stock clamps have to be removed by carefully cutting the the rubber end stop (in your pic the right side at the top of the hose) to take the clamp off and then you can thread the new clamp in and tighten
 

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Do you mean push the hose right up to the ridge shown in this photo? The hose is not to be pushed over this ridge, just up against it, right?
That is correct. There's another ridge at the end of the aluminum tube, that the hose must go over, but your pic shows the hose IS already over that.
 
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