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I stumbled upon this today...

"The two valves are there to remove air bubbles from interrupting the flow of coolant in the engine. When they fail, the car will run hot while driving, but will decrease in temperature when stopped. Also the heater will blow only cold air. These are both telltale signs to replace the check valves. As I understand it they are cheap and easy to fix."

Where are these two two check valves for the cooling system? (Photos?)
 

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I stumbled upon this today...

"The two valves are there to remove air bubbles from interrupting the flow of coolant in the engine. When they fail, the car will run hot while driving, but will decrease in temperature when stopped. Also the heater will blow only cold air. These are both telltale signs to replace the check valves. As I understand it they are cheap and easy to fix."

Where are these two two check valves for the cooling system? (Photos?)
I don't think they are there from the factory, but might be there if the TSB was followed after previous owner complaint.

Here is a good description, and I saved the picture of the two locations from the link:

https://gm.oemdtc.com/356/engine-over-heatpoor-heater-performance-2007-2009-pontiac-saturn-opel-daewoo
 

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They are just one way valves that look like thimbles. Just make sure you lube them up and insert them the right way (I guess that advice applies to a lot of things...). There is a picture in the TSB that Dave posted.

Available for under $20 on Ebay, they once listed at $800 a pair in Canada ('only $400 in the US)!
 

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Yeah - I have always wondered how GM could possibly justify the original prices.....
 

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Yeah - I have always wondered how GM could possibly justify the original prices.....
Did the original price include anything else? Installation, coolant replacement, etc? The price would still be high, but not a ridiculously as if it was just parts.
 

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Did the original price include anything else? Installation, coolant replacement, etc? The price would still be high, but not a ridiculously as if it was just parts.
No, just the valves. I recall the parts man looking them up and guffawing when he saw the price, and saying that it was a good thing it was under warranty. The identical part number dropped to a very low figure with no change in the parts. I saw them when they came in - a bag with the two valves in it.

Have always wondered what the story was. Maybe a supplier ripped GM off, or GM didn't try and source the parts elsewhere? If anyone has the parts books and can see when the parts first came out and what the application was, it would be interesting. The part number is in the TSB that was posted.

It would have been much less funny for anyone that bought a first year turbo car and whose warranty had expired, so they had the option of paying exorbitant amounts or living with the overheating.

I also recall the dealer not being aware of the problem - I had to show them a copy of the bulletin before they agreed to deal with it and that was only after trying a coolant replacement and using their special filler etc. (which didn't solve the problem).
 

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Have always wondered what the story was. Maybe a supplier ripped GM off, or GM didn't try and source the parts elsewhere? If anyone has the parts books and can see when the parts first came out and what the application was, it would be interesting. The part number is in the TSB that was posted.
I suspect that the culprit was the guy/gal that did the original data entry for those check valves, and who typed "$800" instead of "$8.00" on the computer, and then never double-checked his/her entry after it was in the system, or maybe the data terminal the person was using had a broken or sticky "." key.

I have seen and fixed similar oopsies on other parts in similar systems, and GM's parts system is more complicated that most others, just due to the number of parts entered into GM's systems.

:dunno:

.
 

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My Sky seems to run hot at times. Am in AZ where its 100-110F. Car runs 200-210 on flat ground, 215-220 climbing hills. During winter here when it's 50-70F car runs 195-200 on flat but will still be 210-215+ on hills.

Heater blows hot air. A/C blows cold. When climbing hills I tend to back off the throttle or am afraid it will climb past 220. Had WP replaced (was leaking) and coolant flush at dealer. No change. With heater working fine is it still possible air is in system?
 

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My Sky seems to run hot at times. Am in AZ where its 100-110F. Car runs 200-210 on flat ground, 215-220 climbing hills. During winter here when it's 50-70F car runs 195-200 on flat but will still be 210-215+ on hills.

Heater blows hot air. A/C blows cold. When climbing hills I tend to back off the throttle or am afraid it will climb past 220. Had WP replaced (was leaking) and coolant flush at dealer. No change. With heater working fine is it still possible air is in system?
That's normal, in my experience, with the 2.0 cars.

Owned mine since 2007 and never had an overheat problem except when I had issues with the fan (a couple blown fuses and two failed controllers). If you get the air out of the system and don't open it when hot, there shouldn't be any need for check valves.
 

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That's normal, in my experience, with the 2.0 cars.

Owned mine since 2007 and never had an overheat problem
It should be remembered that the light doesn't come on until the temp is way past where you'd want it to be, so unless you drive with the setting on the DIC set for coolant temp, you could have been overheating frequently and not know it. (I don't recall when the warning light comes on and it isn't in the driver's handbook, but recall it being pretty high - 230+ - anyone know for sure?)

My default DIC setting ever since has been engine temp!
 

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Discussion Starter #16
The dash warning light comes on at 250.

Possibly correct.
I got up to 237 last week (air in system) and no warning light.
(Google search says) We are good for up to 223 degs without ill effects.
 

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That sounds ominous. I hope you were able to recover without damage.
So far I've found that the thermostat was stuck and the fail controller had failed... car is still overheating. Can't get the system to bleed so I'm now waiting on my vacuum fill tool.
 

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