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I'm here to tell, DO NOT attempt to replace the thermostat on a 2.0L if you are a shade tree mechanic!!! I have been at it now for just over 8 hours. And I still have at least that to go. I have been working on this on and off for the past 2 weeks. All of the videos and instructions and anyone that says how easy this is....lies and all have/show a 2.4L!! LOL.. There are so many hoses and sensors back there on a 2.0L vs. the 2.4L and very little room to do anything. And once I get at that back bolt on the thermo housing(yes, still working on getting at the back bolt!!), I'm not even certain the thermostat can fit out! I did just fine with my brakes, my HPFP (according to GM it's 3 hrs for the HPFP, I did it in 45 minutes and it's 3.3hrs for the thermo...yeah, right!) and other things with no problems. This one though....wow!!

Here's my adventure so far and all of my frustration(s): Darn clamp in the way - Pontiac Solstice Forum
 

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Can't remember my password for the Solstice forum but it looks like you need these.

But, I will say, I'm getting ready to finally tackle this water pump job in the coming week and you're not making me feel good about it.
 

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its actually very very very easy i did it on my 2.0 i did the water pump and thermostat. the thermostat is a piece of cake a lovely young lady did a very nice video on youtube on how to DIY on her solstice all i would suggest is buying a pair of long 16" pliers at harbor freights and some dw-40 to loosen up the clamps, before actually removing anything i spent about 30 minutes spraying brake cleaner and wiping down some of the gunk because it was pretty bad from one of my heater hoses that gave up not long ago and from repeated small leaks the dirt collected so thats what took the longest the cleaning. also buy socket extensions to reach down there thats it.



Stop scaring people i prefer to encourage DIY
 

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Can't remember my password for the Solstice forum but it looks like you need these.

But, I will say, I'm getting ready to finally tackle this water pump job in the coming week and you're not making me feel good about it.
pic or video of how those work? From the pic I can't picture it.

Nevermind, found another pic, now I see that black thing goes over the clamp ends and you squeeze and they pull togeather opening the clamp. Very clever.
 

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its actually very very very easy i did it on my 2.0 i did the water pump and thermostat. the thermostat is a piece of cake a lovely young lady did a very nice video on youtube on how to DIY on her solstice all i would suggest is buying a pair of long 16" pliers at harbor freights and some dw-40 to loosen up the clamps, before actually removing anything i spent about 30 minutes spraying brake cleaner and wiping down some of the gunk because it was pretty bad from one of my heater hoses that gave up not long ago and from repeated small leaks the dirt collected so thats what took the longest the cleaning. also buy socket extensions to reach down there thats it.



Stop scaring people i prefer to encourage DIY
Sorry, but that video is not helpful at all. That video is what I based doing mine off of. I have the hose pliers, I have long needle nose pliers, and I tried rotating it down like she explained. My clamp remover got caught on my AC hoses on the firewall...I cannot spin that clamp any further and it's directly over my bolt to the thermostat. I have put a pry bar on it and hammered it and it DOES NOT budge. It's soaked with WD40 as well. I know how to work on cars, I've done struts, brakes, HPFP, WP, you name it....but this has been my worst experience yet.... Not scaring people at all, just showing them the reality. And just so you know....a tech will charge me an extra 2 or 3 hours at this point to do it because I've worked on it first. So I'm just cautioning people.
 

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I purchased a Thermostat for my base at gmpartsdirect.com...

I searched for a redline Thermostat - you can order it after searching for 12622410.

Unless you're on a budget - I recommend that you purchase several other items at the same time.

Especially if you're resolving a service engine light. Cause once you fix one thing you'll get another.

Also, any mechanic who is replacing any of these parts has to remove the crowl. A half an hour's worth of work (to remove and reinstall).

Get a Reservoir Tank: 10368831.

An engine coolant temperature sensor (and sorry I don't have the GM number on that) .

The a wire that goes from the temperature sensor to the reservoir (it's standard GM)

Buy 'em all at once. All the parts at once will cost you less than 160$.
 

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Sorry, but that video is not helpful at all. That video is what I based doing mine off of. I have the hose pliers, I have long needle nose pliers, and I tried rotating it down like she explained. My clamp remover got caught on my AC hoses on the firewall...I cannot spin that clamp any further and it's directly over my bolt to the thermostat. I have put a pry bar on it and hammered it and it DOES NOT budge. It's soaked with WD40 as well. I know how to work on cars, I've done struts, brakes, HPFP, WP, you name it....but this has been my worst experience yet.... Not scaring people at all, just showing them the reality. And just so you know....a tech will charge me an extra 2 or 3 hours at this point to do it because I've worked on it first. So I'm just cautioning people.
It has been your reality but not everyone's. That clamp you're talking about moved on my car. It has moved on others. Sounds like your's may be the exception. Good to know though that these can be more stubborn than others have had experience with.
 

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I am in the process of installing the famous check valves and flushing/changing coolant in my 2007 Opel GT and have a brand new SuperStant big flow thermostat, but after lifting the windshield base and looking at the huge mess of wires, sensors and hoses around the thermostat enclosure I am thinking it twice. That girl must have removed a couple of hoses/sensors which doesn't show in the video, that or the 2.0 Sky and the GT are different which I doubt.

Also the trick of rising up the coolant reservoir doesn't work for me, no coolant flowing up through the nipple over the engine, I have to use un vacuum tool to force it. It is not an issue though as it works as a charm and the check valves seem to eliminate any remaing air bubbles.
 

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The check valves are not a replacement to properly purging air out of the coolant system. It will purge smaller bubbles each full heating and cooling of the system.
I know, using the vacuum pump seems enough in my case.
After draining the old coolant, installing the check valves and filling with distilled water and flush fluid i went out for a 100 km run and temp was always 94-95°C (i have the old 2007 94°C thermostat) no matter if stopped at a light in the city or at 180 km/h at the highway. Impressive.
Before, temp fluctuated from low 90s up to above 100°C.
 

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Finally dared to change the thermo. It was not that hard, the hardest was to figure out how to do it. In fact i needed to buy extra 1/4 extenders to reach the back screw since 1/2 and even 3/8 are too wide and collide with the very hose (i previously rotated the famous clamp using a hammer and a metal bar after bathing it well in WD-40, that was relatively easy). There is enough space to move the thermostat towards the rear. If you have small hands you can reach it from the front otherwise you will have to use some flexibe claw extender tool like me and things get a bit more complicated.

To my surprise my old thermo was 82°C (it has "Y 180" graven in the base) , not 94°C, which makes me think that it was somewhat defective since my temps were always between 95 and 100°C sometimes even 101-102°C. Replaced it with a high flow Stant Superstat as recommend in german forums, previously drilled a tiny hole (less than a mm width) in the thermostat outer ring to avoid air bubbles under it, just in case. Temps are now in the 84-92°C range at any moment. :)
 

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Replaced it with a high flow Stant Superstat as recommend in german forums, previously drilled a tiny hole (less than a mm width) in the thermostat outer ring to avoid air bubbles under it, just in case. Temps are now in the 84-92°C range at any moment. :)
Do you say that the Stant thermostat has a tiny hole in it, or you drilled a tiny hole in it?

Some thermostats were made with tiny holes intentionally during manufacturing. I don't know if an OEM Sky version has a hole or not. It seems a good idea to have a tiny hole in it.
 

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Do you say that the Stant thermostat has a tiny hole in it, or you drilled a tiny hole in it?

Some thermostats were made with tiny holes intentionally during manufacturing. I don't know if an OEM Sky version has a hole or not. It seems a good idea to have a tiny hole in it.
I drilled it. Not holes in the OEM thermo nor the aftermarket thermo i installed.

Update btw, there was a big air bubble in the system. Temp rose to 115°C for a moment. o_O so parked and waited for it to cool down. Started up again and everything was ok, except coolant level in the reservoir was several centimeters lower than before. So, apparently burped it, maybe thanks to the hole, or because the check valves. Hopping doesn't happen again.
 
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