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Discussion Starter #1
When I press the Competition Mode button does it do more than turn off traction control?... is that all "competition mode" is? That's my understanding, if I'm wrong please enlighten me. In another thread someone said something about pressing the Competition Mode button twice in order to be in competition mode... is that right?... and what's the difference?
 

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I'm assuming this works the same as my Corvette. If you turn the traction control button off, it also turns off the electronic stability control. In competition mode the stability control remains on for safety but turns off the traction control for more "spirited" driving (hence "competition mode").
 

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I'm assuming this works the same as my Corvette. If you turn the traction control button off, it also turns off the electronic stability control. In competition mode the stability control remains on for safety but turns off the traction control for more "spirited" driving (hence "competition mode").
That is correct. Push the button once.....all systems off (except ABS of course)

Push button a second time within 5 seconds of the first push, car is in Competitive Mode. Electronic Stability Control is still on, but Traction Control is off.

The DIC in your dash will show you which mode you're in as you push the button. Also a small yellow icon of a triangle and a car with wiggly lines will show on the dash when either Traction Off or Competitive Mode. It will disappear when you push it later to turn all systems back on.
 

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Discussion Starter #4
That is correct. Push the button once.....all systems off (except ABS of course)

Push button a second time within 5 seconds of the first push, car is in Competitive Mode. Electronic Stability Control is still on, but Traction Control is off.

The DIC in your dash will show you which mode you're in as you push the button. Also a small yellow icon of a triangle and a car with wiggly lines will show on the dash when either Traction Off or Competitive Mode. It will disappear when you push it later to turn all systems back on.
I'll check the owner's manual again, but I don't recall seeing anything about pushing the button twice for competition mode... now, it may seem like a silly question to some, but why would I NOT want Electronic Stability Control to be turned on. I mean, if "Competition Mode" has Electronic Stability Control engaged, then why would I ever want it turned off to begin with?.. that just doesn't make sense to me.
 

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Push once = tracton control off, ESC and ABS engaged

Push 2nd time (within 5 seconds) = Comp mode = traction control off, ESC and ABS engaged at a performance enhanced level.

Push and hold for 10 seconds = Traction control off, ESC off and I am still up in the air on whether ABS is on in this mode. (Confirmed by snaponbob that ABS is still enabled)


Once you are in any mode (traction off, competitive, or ESC off) hitting the button once will turn everything back on. If you shut off your car and turn it back on, everything will be turned back on.

<clarifications added by admin>
 

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I'll check the owner's manual again, but I don't recall seeing anything about pushing the button twice for competition mode... now, it may seem like a silly question to some, but why would I NOT want Electronic Stability Control to be turned on. I mean, if "Competition Mode" has Electronic Stability Control engaged, then why would I ever want it turned off to begin with?.. that just doesn't make sense to me.
In a true performance setting, a good driver can outperform the Default and Comp mode.
 

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Okay, Daywalker has the sequence correct. The only thing that will kill the ABS is removing the fuse.

I have autocrossed my RL twice. The first time I ran it in Comp mode. The second time was with everything off. MUCH better. Even in Comp mode, the car tries to take over at very inopportune times. The ABS is very effective, even autocrossing. I was pushing the envelope in threshold braking and ABS took over. Yeah!! No flatspots on my Hoosiers. The other thing I have discovered is that running all the way to the 6200 redline is a waste in competition. Shifting between 5700-6000 rpm means you will not hit the rev limiter, and there is plenty of torque to pull the car in 2nd or 3rd. A little busier in the cockpit, but quicker, so far.

HTH.
 

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no offense. But I'm 100% sure. The easiest way to see I'm right is to go outside in your redline, start the engine, and try it out.
I dont know if you are directing this to what I said, but to clarify see below.

Page 199 of the manual.

Traction Control System - ON
This system limits wheel spin. The system only operates if it senses the rear wheels are spinning to much or are beginning to loose traction. When this happens, the system works the rear brakes and reduces engine power to limit wheel spin.

OFF- The system will not limit wheel spin.

Page 201
Electronic Stability Control

The ESC system combines, anti-lock brake, traction control and stability control systems and helps the driver maintain DIRECTIONAL control of the vehicle in most driving conditions.

Page 203
Competetive Driving Mode
This mode allows the driver to have FULL control of the rear wheels while the ESC system helps maintain directional control of the vehicle by selective brake application. When Competetive mode is selected the traction control system will not be operating.


The manual does not clearly cover full off, but if you look at your DIC while holding the button for approx 10 seconds you will see it indicate traction off first then it will indicate ESC off next. Now your in full manual mode. As you said, go turn the car on and check it out. The all off mode is by far, IMHO, the best option for performance driving.
 

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Thanks for the clarification on the ABS Bob. I thought I have detected a little lockup, but I was on loose gravel in the all off mode and more than likely the ABS was working properly, I just did not detect it back through the pedal.:thumbs:
 

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Perfect timing for this thread.:)
This morning I was making a rather quick start and suddenly I heard a warning ding. Readout said ESC OFF then flashed SERVICE ESC. I was in normal mode (not competition). Do I need to take it in for service or can I simply hit the reset button?

Also, any idea why this happened?
 

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I had a similar situation. I was in some "spirited driving" and heard the same ding and ESC OFF followed by SERVICE ESC. I immediately pulled over and tried the traction control button.......nothing. I turned the car off, and then turned it on again, and everything was fine. About 2 weeks ago, my car was in service for something completely unrelated, and when they gave me a small update during the week, they said they were also waiting for a new Body Control Module. I didn't question it since it's no charge to me, but I was kinda surprised to hear them say that since none of the reasons I brought it in for would suggest changing that.........other than that little SERVICE ESC moment. Well, in any case, I'd suggest just taking it to the dealer and tell them what happened. It's an easy fix if it's the same Body Control Module that I had.

Did your warning remain on after turning off your car and turning it back on? If it remains on, then I'd suggest you take it to the dealer asap.
 

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Perfect timing for this thread.:)
This morning I was making a rather quick start and suddenly I heard a warning ding. Readout said ESC OFF then flashed SERVICE ESC. I was in normal mode (not competition). Do I need to take it in for service or can I simply hit the reset button?

Also, any idea why this happened?
When my RedLine had like 25 miles, I got the "SERVICE ESC" light; I just turned the car off and back on again... I have not seen it since... :thumbs:

Thanks to Daywalker for "learning me up" on the FULL OFF procedure!!! i will try it and enjoy it to the fullest... :D

I had tried to do a power slide coming off my work's entrance and everytime, even though I was in Competitive Mode, it "shut me down" and I saw the ESC Active on the DIC and I was puzzled since I thought ESC would be OFF in that mode... Oh well... I know now!!! :D :thumbs:

Regards,

BA...
 

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Discussion Starter #15
wow.....thanks for all the info and clarifying any misconceptions I had. It really is appreciated.:thumbs:
 

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Did your warning remain on after turning off your car and turning it back on? If it remains on, then I'd suggest you take it to the dealer asap.
Stayed on, would not reset, going in for service.:banghead:
I'm getting awful familiar with the roads between my house and the dealership. 650 total miles---120 of those spent going back and forth to dealer. Hopefully all the bugs will be worked out very soon, Looks like a top down weekend here in Maryland.
 

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Thread revival!

I parked pointed uphill with the front wheels looking at a big speed bump. When I went to leave it was raining heavily and the bump became a chock against the front wheels. Traction control is still new to me so I decided to see what it'd do if I tried to get over the bump. As I applied more throttle the rears increased spin until I hit 1500 RPM regardless of more throttle. However, a second or two after hitting the floor, I got DTC's set, traction control turned off, "service traction control ESC" appeared, and the rears quickly spun up to over 3000 RPM before I got off the gas. That was a surprise because being stuck and someone flooring it should be the condition where traction control is really needed. My girlfriend is someone who will do this, for example.

The codes turned out to be left front and right front wheel speed sensor failure. Makes sense that traction control can't operate without those as inputs but zero speed, low traction, and full throttle seems to be the obvious case where wheelspin needs limiting. I cleared the codes, restarted, and everything was back to normal. So, I repeated this test twice with the same results.

I tried this with my girlfriends BMW 335i and got expected results. RPM is limited to about 1500 and you can floor it indefinitely without that changing. Sounds like an overlooked use case on the Sky. Admittedly it's an odd test case, but not if you're stuck in the mud, so it should have been worked out.

Anyone have any idea why our cars, or at least my car, would behave this way? Unlikely, but possible that both my front sensors are bad? Or, maybe this has been addressed in an update and I need to perform service programming on the module.
 

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My thought is that the system is designed to keep you stable while moving, and the possibility that you are trying to get un-stuck was overlooked. I have never tested mine under those conditions, so I can't say what it does. You could try a similar test while moving to see if the system activaes without errors.

My thought is that the sensors are OK because I think you would get ABS faults if they were bad.
 

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My thought is that the system is designed to keep you stable while moving, and the possibility that you are trying to get un-stuck was overlooked. I have never tested mine under those conditions, so I can't say what it does. You could try a similar test while moving to see if the system activaes without errors.

My thought is that the sensors are OK because I think you would get ABS faults if they were bad.
That's been my experience. With the front tires stopped and the rears spinning, the TC system thinks there is a problem with the front sensors since they are receiving no data (or what they think is no data). If you had a bad wheel sensor, you'd be getting ABS errors too.
 

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Thanks guys! It makes sense that we're not setup to get unstuck. By contrast, the BMW's literature specifically talks about their traction control helping you get unstuck. Just a different target audience between the two cars.

Robotech, is you're car's name a nod to Max Sterling? I liked Milia Sterling (Fallyna Jenius). Awesome long green hair! Of course Dana Sterling rocked the second show!

Your prior car V.A.L., Valkyrie? Those were supercool in guardian mode.
 

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