[sean.sky]

Hello everyone,

I just found this form to help my mom fix her trunk latch issue. I have read through many posts on the truck and the latching mechanism but didn't see any posts specifically addressing an issue like what we have.

The trunk on the 2007 Saturn Sky only opens after repeated attempts to push the remote button and the glovebox button. Sometimes it's only once or twice. sometimes it won't open for a few minutes. I have noticed that it has slowly been getting worse over the past few months. The noise for the release sounds correct and both buttresses pop up when it actually engages.

Another thing I have noticed is that when the top is down and the trunk is closed I need to hit the release button twice. Once for popping it open, but it still has some catch holding it until I press again and it decides to work. I am not sure if these issues are from the same issue or separate issues.

Any advice on solving this issue will be greatly appreciated!

 

[rjgramps]

Because this happens with the Trunk Release button in the glove box and also with the FOB, the problem may be related to the latch itself.

I would inspect the electrical connection at the center latch. Water might have found it's way inside the connector. If you see a chalky-like substance on the terminals inside it, that would be the beginning of corrosion.

Inspecting the terminals in that connector is easily done when the convertible top is stored inside the trunk. If you find it impossible to disconnect the two halves of the connector, the corrosion inside might be severe. Be careful not to break the locking latch. These car are getting old.

I restore corroded connectors by submerging them in CLR in baby food jars, wait an hour, then submerge them with vigor in plain water to wash-off the CLR. Then dry out the connector-halves with a hair dryer. Finally I apply silicone grease inside the connector for future corrosion protection.

Many years ago, I did that for every connector under the hood of a 1992 Mercury Capri XR2 because by design (Austrailian made) the connectors were not sealed. For those who recall, the old Jaguar suffered from the same. I bought the car dead and disassembled for $100 (scrap value at the time) after a number of mechanics gave up. The car ran like a champ after I cleaned all the connectors. I later sold the car in beautiful condition to a college student. I took this picture just before she drove away.

 

[sean.sky]

That would make sense. I had a feeling it might be something along the electrical path from the switch to the car. I did check the fuses and it looks good. I will check tonight and that cleaning method sounds really nice. I will give it a try if my connector looks as bad as you described. Thanks for the quick response!

 

[Rob the Elder]

its also possible its mechanical. The fact that you push the button twice and it opens could be a result of the latch not fully disengaging from the trunk lid hook. With the trunk open, check to see (hear) if the latch is cycling when you push the button. If it is, then check the engagement point for the trunk lid. If the latch is too deep, it may be having a problem releasing. If it is not adjusted well fore and aft you can get the same result.

It is also possible that its the swich in the fob and the glove box. Both are known to suffer from wear and dirt. If the latch is not activating with the trunk open with each button push, then its likely electrical and you can start with the connector to the trunk latch, then check the fuse for that circuit. Finally check the battery and switch pads in the remote.

 

[JohnWR]

Hello everyone,

I just found this form to help my mom fix her trunk latch issue. I have read through many posts on the truck and the latching mechanism but didn't see any posts specifically addressing an issue like what we have.

The trunk on the 2007 Saturn Sky only opens after repeated attempts to push the remote button and the glovebox button. Sometimes it's only once or twice. sometimes it won't open for a few minutes. I have noticed that it has slowly been getting worse over the past few months. The noise for the release sounds correct and both buttresses pop up when it actually engages.

Another thing I have noticed is that when the top is down and the trunk is closed I need to hit the release button twice. Once for popping it open, but it still has some catch holding it until I press again and it decides to work. I am not sure if these issues are from the same issue or separate issues.

Any advice on solving this issue will be greatly appreciated!

I think that your first problem may be contaminated contacts in both buttons, but it depends on what you mean by "won't open". If you can hear the unlatch solenoid operate but the hatch stays latched it is not the buttons, but if you push the button and nothing at all happens, the most likely culprit is the button. The button in the glovebox can be replaced, or it can be removed, disassembled, cleaned reassembled and reinstalled. The fob can be opened and sometimes the contact pad can be cleaned. Some people have adhered small pieces of foil to the pad to make good contact, and it is also possible to replace the entire fob.

The not opening with the top down even when the solenoid operates could be failure of the springs that raise the lid, so my approach is to put a finger in the buttress pin hole and lift up lightly while pushing the button. The alternatives are to add a helper spring or to source (difficult) replacement springs and replace them (more difficult).

 

[JohnnyG]

Rubber pencil eraser works great to clean the copper contacts on the circuit board, and if the rubber pads that contact the copper are worn, there are kits you can buy to apply a new coat of carbon/contact material (look for rubber keypad repair).

 

[sean.sky]

Thank you so much for the advice! I took a look tonight and I removed all the connectors and inspected them for corrosion I didn't see any signs of corrosion but after connecting them the top pops up every time I try the trunk button. So I guess it might have been a loose connection. I have not been able to try w/ remotes due to both being broken due to a broken battery clip in each. I will need to replace my fobs but I think for now that everything is good. Hopefully this post helps others with their trunk problems. Thanks for all the help!

 

[JohnWR]

Thank you so much for the advice! I took a look tonight and I removed all the connectors and inspected them for corrosion I didn't see any signs of corrosion but after connecting them the top pops up every time I try the trunk button. So I guess it might have been a loose connection. I have not been able to try w/ remotes due to both being broken due to a broken battery clip in each. I will need to replace my fobs but I think for now that everything is good. Hopefully this post helps others with their trunk problems. Thanks for all the help!

The battery clips usually break loose from the circuit board and can be resoldered.

 

[rjgramps]

The battery clips usually break loose from the circuit board and can be resoldered.

Yes indeed!

I have bought cheap FOB knock-offs on eBay for our Sky and other GM vehicles. First I solder them down better before putting them into service. Once done, they work great for the long haul.

THERE ARE OFTEN TWO BAD THINGS GOING ON WITH THE BATTERY RETAINER
One is that it is not seated properly on the circuit board. The condition is made worse via a poor solder joint. During my repair, when the solder is molten, I press the metal foot flat to the circuit board. This provides a better electrical and mechanically stable connection, both to the circuit board and also to the battery.

WHEN WORKING ON A USED FOB FOR ANY REASON
(EVEN JUST CHANGING THE BATTERY)

• Clean off the dust & dirt from all parts using a toothbrush
• Clean the button patterns on the circuit board with a good plyable pink eraser.
• Clean the black popple plungers with 91% alcohol using a Q-Tip.

Following this procedure provides many years of reliable service.