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Discussion Starter #1
Hey guys, I had my car out today, and was driving along fine.
All of a sudden my turbo stopped working, I couldn't get any boost.

Car ran fine otherwise.

Parked it for a few hours and then it was fine when I got back in later.

Thoughts?

Side note: No check engine codes until a few hours after I had one pop up:p2178 System Too Rich Off Idle pop up after an acceleration while driving, while the Turbo was working again.
 

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Discussion Starter #2
Just to add to this... I did notice briefly when the turbo cut out that I was getting some good backfires...

Looking at some causes of that code specific.
I have a new MAF, Plugs, the Air Intake is freshly cleaned, I had the High Pressure Fuel Pump replaced one.

I've got a dent in my IC and have for years, so maybe it's turned into a crack.. I'll be chasing this down, unless anyone has any other thoughts.

https://workshop-manuals.com/saturn/sky/l4-2.0l_turbo/powertrain_management/fuel_delivery_and_air_induction/turbocharger/intercooler/intercooler_duct/component_information/technical_service_bulletins/all_technical_service_bulletins_for_intercooler_duct/07-06-04-029/oct/07/engine_low_power/hissing_noise/dtcs_p0101/p2178/
 

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Discussion Starter #4
This is the SKY that you had sold and bought back a few years later? Does it still have the Trifecta aftermarket tune? What brand spark plugs did you put in and set at what gap?
Yes it is, he actually put new plugs and a MAF in last year, at the GM dealer, I have the work order somewhere.
Trifecta still on there. I noticed there was a big of a varriance in the peak boost. Use it always hit 21 and was sitting around 17-18 right now only hitting 21 a few times. I thought this was just from it being cold where I am right now, but that could be a sign of the IC having a leak is what I'm thinking.
 

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I've had the P1278 and more often the P0556 DTC codes show up. Did you fix yours?

The P0556 only came on when driving hard with the car not fully warmed up (170+)
The P1278 was very rare, but now it's showing up on every trip :(. Won't go past 14psi with Trifecta tune on, or go past 8 with it off, unless I reset the code.

P0556 was solved by replacing the hose/ 1/way valve assembly at the brake booster/throttle body, and the sensor that is inline - 15797572

P1278 I'm hoping is one or more of the GM stock hose clamps. Already tightened two obviously loose connections, one at the the throttle body and the one to the charge pipe just upstream from it. The others look a bit difficult to get to.

This kit should seal them right? - Solstice/Sky T-bolt Clamp Kit for 2.0L Charge Tubes by DDMWorks

I'll also inspect and clean the MAF and oil the K&N.

Thanks!
 

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I had weird intermittent issues for a couple years. Turned out to be a connection to the 3 bar MAF sensor installed with the GMPP tune in 2009- the splice developed an intermittent open that would cause a misfire and put the car into limp mode. If your MAF is spliced in, check the connections.
 
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If you have the trifecta tune, cold temps shouldn't affect boost pressures all that much. The stock tune would drop boost as temps dropped to maintain the same target torque output (this is the "learn down" feature most people are familiar with) but the Trifecta tune is supposed to address this.

Might be time to pressure test your Intercooler. However, I would also do as lorennerol mentioned and check your MAF connector. I had a broken wire in my original one and it gave me all sorts of intermittent fits.
 

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Good tips, will check over the weekend. Bought some CRC MAF cleaner and tbolt clamps are on the way (73mm-83mm).

Yes, have the Trifecta tune, however if the engine isn't at least to 135' and you punch it, it feels like spark or fuel-cut. That usually sets off the P0556, but the car drives normal once the temps hit 170+. P0556 doesn't bother me much. P1278, now that's pure disappointment especially since the car is a DD.

Checked the wires on the MAF connector, and they were factory; didn't see any obvious stress/modifications to the wire or connector. I usually clear the code, and on the way back home it's poopy again. Happened to start right before swapping suspension so at least that isn't related.

Pressure testing... I used to have a couple PVC couplers and an adjustable pressure set valve in different sizes for the Dodge Stealth RT/TT's or 1G/2G DSM's (have had like 8 of them). I also used to have a compressor. And parts washer, and air tools, drill press, grinders, sanders, mig and tig welder, organized random nuts and bolts of all sorts. Now I have a craftsman tool kit and some impact sockets...

When you test, do you take off the turbo elbow rubber hose and pressurize from there?
Do you have to also take off the throttle body pipe and cap it, or is there enough seal with engine off with the valves mostly closed?

Moving to Florida, half my tools never shipped here due to the moving company so I kinda stopped working on cars. Anyone in the Tampa/Sarasota area have a tester?
 

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JW-Redline, did you ever solve your problem?

P2178 System Too Rich Off Idle Bank 1 came back as it has for the last 2 weeks, after the two worm clamps were swapped for 2.9" tbolt hose clamps this morning. Car feels stronger than before just after a clearing of the error via Torque app and the hoses haven't budged.

I will be cleaning the MAF with CRC MAF cleaner once the engine cools off and update later today.
 

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Well after cleaning the MAF, I got new error P0101, and it drove much worse. It would be semi normal if you cleared ECU faults with the OBD2 Torque app.
The car also smelled really rich on startup, and had some stumbles.

Bought a 1080p 5.5mm Wi-Fi endoscope, and inspected the intercooler.

Yep... cracked on drivers side end tank along the seam. :willy:

Thanks for all the help, now which intercooler should I get?

I have the Trifecta tune (canned, but can retune once for free if I ever send logs)
 

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Question....

Did you guys notice when you cleared the codes if your IAT2's were any higher than normal (before you replaced the intercooler)? Like....even though there was a crack in your interecooler...when you cleared the codes it sounds like you were getting the same boost as before?
 

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Well after cleaning the MAF, I got new error P0101, and it drove much worse. It would be semi normal if you cleared ECU faults with the OBD2 Torque app.
The car also smelled really rich on startup, and had some stumbles.

Bought a 1080p 5.5mm Wi-Fi endoscope, and inspected the intercooler.

Yep... cracked on drivers side end tank along the seam. :willy:

Thanks for all the help, now which intercooler should I get?

I have the Trifecta tune (canned, but can retune once for free if I ever send logs)
Wanted to quote so you got the notification....
 

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Question....

Did you guys notice when you cleared the codes if your IAT2's were any higher than normal (before you replaced the intercooler)? Like....even though there was a crack in your interecooler...when you cleared the codes it sounds like you were getting the same boost as before?
Sorry, didn't log CACT, only logged IAT (90's). I've added it to what I log now, but won't be driving the car again until the new IC is in.

I did notice the car was getting a bit slower in the last few weeks. It's a big enough crack that the turbo was probably trying to run 30psi just to attain 22psi. Boost would drop much quicker at higher rpm than before now that I look back. I'm sure it was leaking at the throttle body as well as the charge pipe for a long time, so it will be interesting to see the performance after all this is sorted out.

LTFT was also at -30.47%... eek.
 

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Awww yeah, I know what I'm doing this weekend!

Kudos to RPM Motorsports getting it to me so quickly and packed well. Thanks for the help from everyone on this forum.
 

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