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What kind of amp setup do you have? Did you have to make any adjustments under the hood to compensate for any additional current drain, or is the alternator and battery able to keep up?
See post 246 and forward for setup. Stock Alt/batt. System will dim lights when thumping hard. At the normal level I play it at, all is fine. A capacitor would help for those 'special' songs.
 

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At the levels I use, all is fine. However, The bass is turned WAy down. A capacitor would help as on those 'special songs, it will dim the lights. I have a cap that is on the do list.
 

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Setup starts at post #246 . Alt/batt is stock. At the levels I play, all is fine. However, on those 'special' tracks, the bass will dim the lights. A capacitor would help for that. I have one waiting to go in.
 

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At the levels I'm using, all is well. However, the bass is able to dim the lights on those special tracks. A capacitor would help with that. I have one waiting to be installed.
 

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You know? You should buy a capacitor! That might help. :devil:


Actually, all seriousness aside, would a capacitor really help? I can't see how it's charge would not stay level with the battery voltage. Unless the battery to capacitor circuit has appreciable resistance, or you have a diode between them. Please report back when you install, and tell it if really does help.
 

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See post 246-forward for setup. All stock on alt/batt. Bass is turned way down. But when thumping hard, system will dim lights For now, at the levels I play it, it is fine. A capacitor would help it though.
Cool. I couldn't tell when looking at the spec sheet for the sub, but are those single or dual vc? I'm guessing single, hooked up in parallel?
 

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You'll note in amp specs that they're rated for 12v and 14.4v, with the lower rated power at 12v. This is because the input voltage is stepped up a fixed amount internally and 12v is a lower starting point. Your alternator is keeping you at 14.4v and it's slow to react to voltage drops. So, it comes down to the battery to keep you above 12v on heavy bass notes. Batteries are pretty fast but nothing like a capacitor.

During heavy bass notes you will drop below 12v until the battery reacts. This reduces amp output just when you need it most. Putting a capacitor as close to the amp as possible helps keep the voltage up until the battery can react.

The goal isn't to keep the lights from blinking, but to keep the amp's input voltage as near optimum as possible. In fact, to hell with the lights, you want the cap's power going to the amp, but that requires a high current diode and we're getting into industrial hardware there. So, the convention is to put the cap on the amp with just a few inches of heavy cable and just lose some power to the car itself.

Shot of it is, a cap will help the blinking lights some but the real benefits is stronger bass performance. I've installed lots of caps in the past but have never felt the need to use one in any of my personal vehicles. I've done A/B comparisons with factory vans and it makes a difference, but I never run that many bass amps at once and prefer the simplicity of a heavy power cable run directly to the battery instead (and accept any minor power reductions I incur).

You know? You should buy a capacitor! That might help. :devil:


Actually, all seriousness aside, would a capacitor really help? I can't see how it's charge would not stay level with the battery voltage. Unless the battery to capacitor circuit has appreciable resistance, or you have a diode between them. Please report back when you install, and tell it if really does help.
 

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If you're talking about the stock sub setup in the sky, it's dual voice coil at the speaker end. However, I've never been able to locate a schematic of the Monsoon amp so I can't say how the voice coils are wired. From the amp chips the Monsoon amp uses I'm almost certain they are tun in parallel with 50w RMS to each coil. The parts spec out that way, and, this ties in with the factory claimed amp power output. Otherwise, it'd be 50w short of what's claimed.

Cool. I couldn't tell when looking at the spec sheet for the sub, but are those single or dual vc? I'm guessing single, hooked up in parallel?
 

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Typically, amps are rated at 12v an at 14.4v, with the lower output being at 12v. During heavy bass notes system voltage will drop below 12v since a car battery is slow to react, reducing power output just when you need it. A "bracing" capacitor in close wiring proximity will hold voltage above 12v until the battery reacts. This is their real function. Helping prevent car lights from dimming is a matter of the cap holding system voltage up in general, unless you have a high current diode in place to prevent it. In reality, you want all the power going to the amp and not caring about the lights.


You know? You should buy a capacitor! That might help. :devil:


Actually, all seriousness aside, would a capacitor really help? I can't see how it's charge would not stay level with the battery voltage. Unless the battery to capacitor circuit has appreciable resistance, or you have a diode between them. Please report back when you install, and tell it if really does help.
 

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Is there an echo in here?

That'll teach me to post before my quart of coffee. :surprise:

Really, I can't see my prior posts. When I refresh I see page 18 of this tread and my posts aren't there. There's also no page 19 for me. I only got to page 19 by clicking on the link the forum emailed me saying you'd quoted me. Nothing on page 19 except your post and this one. Tried it in firefox and chrome.

I need more coffee before trying to figure it out.......
 

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Sorry for late response, but I was having an issue with my posts. The dimming issue is only at idle. I'm thinking of changing the pulley on the alternator to address that. A capacitor is on my mind because I know they refill faster than batteries and take the 'hit' away from the car's electrical system. I don't think one is necessary at this low wattage (600w @ 2 ohms), but it would help for those bass intense songs at high volume and I have one sitting around from a prior build.
 

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epooh1, did you resolve the dimming?

Update on my Sky's system. I had given up the rear quarter panel 3.5" speakers in order to use the rear L/R preamp lines for the head-unit's subwoofer output. This gave me the ability to customize the sub output curve and set the low-pass point. However, I finally accepted that I can't make an 8" go boom with 100wRMS in a convertible.

I've reverted it to 4-channel full-range output to the Monsoon amp and will do what I can for bass with the head's EQ. The win is in using Infinity REF3022CFX 3.5" speakers. They're 92dB/w, 3-ohm, and have a very bright tweeter. So, they're a lot louder and have more presence than the stock drivers. Thus, I have much better imaging. In fact, it's a big relief to me as the sound was all-front with my prior setup.

Anyhow, without changing the amp, for me, this is as good as it gets and I have no complaints. Need to put my L.A. IASCA boom-boom days behind me. I'm old now. LOL
 

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ZPM: You could still try the JL 13.5" TW5 like I have for some boom-boom... :) Takes some box building, and a bigger hole in the plastic behind the passenger seat... but does the job.
 

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The 12" subs came out perfect and the system sounds even better than it looks. Ultimate SKY stereo complete.
epooh1, how did you run the wires for the tweeters from the door mids? I cant find a way to run the wire thru the factory loom in the door jamb.

tnx
 

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Ok so I finally got around to working on the sound in the Sky and as I was removing the rear panel which I thought was supposed to be pretty simple I stopped because I thought I might be about to break a piece of plastic pulling it off. Been looking on here and I'm sure I must of overlooked it, but what's the proper way to pull off the rear side panel to get to those 3.5" speakers? I definitely have one that has been busted for at least a year. Just been settling till now. I also finally replaced the head unit last week. I used the wiring harness to keep my factory connections. I had my doubts but doing that and integrating it into the monsoon system the car came with sounds just fine. It already sounds better than with the factory HU. I might get away with keeping the amp after all. Just gotta get that pesky rear side panel off. :)
 

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Ok so I finally got around to working on the sound in the Sky and as I was removing the rear panel which I thought was supposed to be pretty simple I stopped because I thought I might be about to break a piece of plastic pulling it off. Been looking on here and I'm sure I must of overlooked it, but what's the proper way to pull off the rear side panel to get to those 3.5" speakers? I definitely have one that has been busted for at least a year. Just been settling till now. I also finally replaced the head unit last week. I used the wiring harness to keep my factory connections. I had my doubts but doing that and integrating it into the monsoon system the car came with sounds just fine. It already sounds better than with the factory HU. I might get away with keeping the amp after all. Just gotta get that pesky rear side panel off. :)
U must take off the door sills first...and the center armrest comes off also.
 
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