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Yes, pull the door sill panels off first.

Those panels just pull out. No screws. They have the same flat plastic tabs with metal clips on them, seen on the back of the main back piece. I start removing the side panels at the bottom-forward end by pushing that end in toward the center of the car. Once that pops off the rest is easy to pull out.

I replaced those speakers with these: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01E4JWG6I
Louder and much more crisp. Really makes known the presence of those speakers back there.
 

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I'm looking at getting a new head unit for my Sky. I have the Monsoon system and I want to get something that will compliment the current setup. I am not great with electricity, but I remember reading something about how the sub runs at 2ohms. Is this something I need to consider when picking a new head unit or is this something that is determined/handled by the factory AMP?
 

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It's nothing to consider wrt the head unit. The monsoon amp drives the sub via two 2 ohm circuits. One circuit for each of the two voice coils in the sub. So, if you change the subwoofer speaker, you must use a dual voice coil type, with each voice coil being 2 ohm. However, from experimentation I found that changing the sub barely made any difference. I wouldn't change it again (I installed the Pioneer one that works here).

WRT the head, the one thing to be aware of is that the monsoon only has four line level inputs. LF, RF, LR, RR. There's no input for the sub. The sub section of the amp gets it's signal from the LR and RR line inputs. So, you can stop using the 3.5" speakers if you want to run the sub-out from the head to the LR and RR line inputs, and have a dedicated sub channel. I didn't like the imaging so I tried it then changed back to the standard full range input for all four channels.
 

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you can stop using the 3.5" speakers if you want to run the sub-out from the head to the LR and RR line inputs, and have a dedicated sub channel. I didn't like the imaging so I tried it then changed back to the standard full range input for all four channels.
Does this mean I can't adjust the sub levels from my headunit separately from my other speakers? Is there a better/different amp that would be advised to use in this instance or is the monsoon the best way to go without major modifications to the system and panels?
 

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Does this mean I can't adjust the sub levels from my headunit separately from my other speakers? Is there a better/different amp that would be advised to use in this instance or is the monsoon the best way to go without major modifications to the system and panels?
If you replace the sub and/or amp, I would go with an Audiocontrol amp. They have the ability to really dial in sound. Do your research on them though before buying one and make sure it's what you're looking for...
 

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Do your research on them
I'm not really sure what I'd be looking for, when it comes to technical aspects. Could you perhaps give me a quick pro/con about the amp? Will it fit in the stock location? If I know what I should be researching, then I can take it from there. I appreciate the advice. On a cursory search, it seems that everyone has good things to say about the amp.
 

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ZPM, Did you replace the 8" sub with another 8" sub? I've been considering either a custom box with a shallow 10" or a custom box with a boomier 8" and an 8" passive radiator. Louder isn't what I'm looking for as much as air movement. I want to feel that air pressure change when you have a good sub installation.
 

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You will probably need an amp to push it. I don't believe the factory monsoon will be powerful enough.
 

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ZPM, Did you replace the 8" sub with another 8" sub? I've been considering either a custom box with a shallow 10" or a custom box with a boomier 8" and an 8" passive radiator. Louder isn't what I'm looking for as much as air movement. I want to feel that air pressure change when you have a good sub installation.
You're NEVER going to get great booming bass from the area you have to work with in our cars....trust me, been trying for a year. You can get okay bass, but not thumping sound. You have to mod the sub box we have or make a custom one that will fit. Our box has ~0.3cu.ft., so you will never get anything that booms. I would suggest modding the box to fit a 10 or 12 and wrapping it in fiberglass. That'll give the plastic sub box more rigidity.
 

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You're NEVER going to get great booming bass from the area you have to work with in our cars....trust me, been trying for a year. You can get okay bass, but not thumping sound. You have to mod the sub box we have or make a custom one that will fit. Our box has ~0.3cu.ft., so you will never get anything that booms. I would suggest modding the box to fit a 10 or 12 and wrapping it in fiberglass. That'll give the plastic sub box more rigidity.
Hey TG, that's the way I'm leaning if I decide to do anything. Just wondering if I want to get an 8" with an added 8" passive radiator, or a single 10".
 

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Actually, you might get one of the JL Audio pre-built boxes with sub and amp back there. I think they're only 6.5" thick and a few have used them in their Camaros. They're around $400.
 

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Actually, you might get one of the JL Audio pre-built boxes with sub and amp back there. I think they're only 6.5" thick and a few have used them in their Camaros. They're around $400.
For the CS110LG-TW1-2

External Width (W)15 in / 381 mm
External Height (H)11.75 in / 298 mm
External Depth (D1)5.563 in / 141 mm
Net Weight17.42 lb / 7.90 kg
 

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For the CS110LG-TW1-2

External Width (W)15 in / 381 mm
External Height (H)11.75 in / 298 mm
External Depth (D1)5.563 in / 141 mm
Net Weight17.42 lb / 7.90 kg
Yes, that's the one I've been thinking about...but I have an amp already. The guys on the Camaro forum said it adds some nice thump to their Bose systems...and I thought the Bose system had enough bass...so it must be decent.
 
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