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Discussion Starter #1
Hello All,

I had my Water Pump replaced 2 years ago "08 Redline" at the dealership with a lifetime warranty. I always keep an eye on my temperature as I'm driving. Noticed it running warmer then normal and climbing so I shut it down at 225 and called a rollback wrecker. Had them take it to the same dealership that replaced the Water Pump. After having it 2 days they call me and say it's an internal problem with the water pump. They said what drives the pump is broken inside...Can someone with knowledge about this please comment? Thanks in advance!!!
 

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That would be a chain, but if that broke you'd hear it and it would make a very loud clatter.

Unless they're talking about the sprocket that drives the water pump...have them give you the details as to what is broken and what will be replaced. Will give us a better idea of what they're saying is wrong.
 

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It's definitely not making a loud clatter, actually none at all. They said it would cost me around 3 grand to have them fix it.
Have them give you an estimate of what work is to be performed and what parts will be replaced. Something sounds off about that.

If it's not clattering then I don't know what they're replacing. The Sprocket seems pretty straightforward (anyone with any experience with that part and how it might fail?) and a chain failure...well...you'd hear something and the engine would shake more when running since that chain also operates the engine balancers.
 

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Mine had an overheat issue, and it was an air bubble in the cooling system. Temp gauge said 225 and I was able to turn it off for a while and drive home since it was about 1/4 mile away.

Here is a video on how to properly bleed the system.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=YF5Ka4oeCxA

Then I installed these check valves to stop it from reoccurring

http://www.crateenginedepot.com/pdfs/20876185.pdf

Maybe it's just as simple for you? Hoping you get it resolved.
 

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Mine had an overheat issue, and it was an air bubble in the cooling system. Temp gauge said 225 and I was able to turn it off for a while and drive home since it was about 1/4 mile away.

Here is a video on how to properly bleed the system.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=YF5Ka4oeCxA

Then I installed these check valves to stop it from reoccurring

http://www.crateenginedepot.com/pdfs/20876185.pdf

Maybe it's just as simple for you? Hoping you get it resolved.
True but if that were the case either it would have popped up much sooner than 2 years or there is a coolant leak somewhere.

Also, 225 may not be too hot depending on what you're doing. We had a drive here in So Cal with about 15 Kappas...Sky's and Solstices, Turbo and NA. We went up a steep grade with about 7 miles of nothing but switchback turns in 100 degree weather. At the top, only one car was showing temps below 230 and it was mine with a brand new thermostat in it (Only 2.4 turbo in the group and still was reading 220). Most were at 230-235.
 

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My first hint at some issue was the heat would not get very warm, then have bursts of being warm (this was winter, so about 45-50 outside).
A few weeks of that went by with less and less heat from heater before the 225-235 overheat issue, and really thought the cooling system or possibly engine was done.

Read up that this is common for the LNF and maybe the 2.4, and there is a TSB for it with the solution of 2x air bleed valves to keep it from happening again.

https://www.solsticeforum.com/forum/f59/attention-no-heat-over-heat-issues-54741/index5.html#post938806

Had a few performance mechanics look at it and the design... One of them said that the expansion tank looks like it's pulled from another vehicle that may have it higher up than in the Kappa, and that it looks familiar.

190-205 is normal range for my car.
 

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Discussion Starter #9
Sorry for the delay, and thanks for all the replies!

I changed out the Thermostat and burped the coolant on Monday. No change...Temp reached 225 and I shut it down. I'm not leaking any fluid anywhere. Car still runs like a bat outa hell and I have No odd noise from the engine. I had the car hauled to a different GM dealership for a second opinion this morning. They said they will be able to look at it one day early next week. I'll reply back with their findings. Thanks again for the replies!
 

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Sorry for the delay, and thanks for all the replies!

I changed out the Thermostat and burped the coolant on Monday. No change...Temp reached 225 and I shut it down. I'm not leaking any fluid anywhere. Car still runs like a bat outa hell and I have No odd noise from the engine. I had the car hauled to a different GM dealership for a second opinion this morning. They said they will be able to look at it one day early next week. I'll reply back with their findings. Thanks again for the replies!
Hopefully it's something simple, like the fan isn't working. How long did it take to get to 225, and were you driving over 40mph? No way the first dealer should be charging $3k!
 

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3 grand to have them fix it.... Hmmm. Seeing that estimate and what they do intend to replace would be interesting for our group.
Might give us a clue to what this first dealership had in mind to what they " thought " is/was the problem here?

For that kinda of money,, you could be rebuilding the front half of the motor here. WP.. timing chain, balancer chain guides
hell let's throw in a new radiator, belts & hoses, a T-stat, maybe new cams too while were at it spend your money on it...

I'm with TS here.. on a second opinion. Now.. the OP has taken it to a different " dealer " at a mere cost of another towing charge
to find out their opinion... to their design from their engineers, IF the money factor gets too high.. we are talking major $$$.
So much for lifetime warranty...

Will the two dealers opinion vary any way, shape or form.. or lack there of in parts needed, time & labor costs to rectify this problem for our owner?

LAC
 

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Discussion Starter #12
Hopefully it's something simple, like the fan isn't working. How long did it take to get to 225, and were you driving over 40mph? No way the first dealer should be charging $3k!
Fan comes on right at 200. Gets faster as the temp rises and works fine. The car was setting idle in my garage when it reached 225.

The reason I took it to another dealer for their opinion is because I have no confidence in the first dealer. The only reason I took it to them was because when they changed out my water pump a couple of years ago I had a life time guarantee on it, and thought it might be the same problem. The reason I have no confidence in Bob Hook Chevrolet Louisville, KY is they said I didn't have a water pump problem the first time I was there. I had to take it back a second time then they said...AHHH you do have a water pump problem...They Suck!
 

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I don't understand. You have a waterpump with a lifetime warranty. They say it's an internal problem with the waterpump. It should be covered. The problem is that the warranty is for parts only, and you pay for the labor, but that shouldn't be anywhere near $3k.
 

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That would be a chain, but if that broke you'd hear it and it would make a very loud clatter.

Unless they're talking about the sprocket that drives the water pump...have them give you the details as to what is broken and what will be replaced. Will give us a better idea of what they're saying is wrong.
Not necessarily. The balancer chain drives the pump. I'm betting one of the guides broke on the balancer chain but you would have major clattering noise from that. Chains don't usually break in the motor...they usually stretch and start to make noise, unless you have 200k on it and have neglected it. If this is the case, here's what I remember from work:

Timing/Balancer chain replacement: 18hrs. about $3000 - this would include replacing both chains and all sprockets, with the exception of the camshaft sprockets.
WP = 9.8hrs so about $1900 dependent on $$$/labor hr.

I'm in the middle of doing my chains currently and it's not an easy job. It's been 4 hours of my time just to get the top off, now the front has to come off....that's happening tomorrow.

On a lighter note, you can access the the front of the pump to see if the chain is still on it and if it has play and if the WP sprocket spins freely. Just remove the access cover in front of the pump. My guess is the dealer doesn't want to do it because the tech has to do it for free...unless a warranty company paid for it last time. Even then, some of them are sketchy and won't pay but for the part. Or the original tech is gone now....Been in the dealer world for 15+ years...seen it all.

EDIT: Just read you have to pay for labor, so scratch that tech not wanting to do it....
 

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I don't understand. You have a waterpump with a lifetime warranty. They say it's an internal problem with the waterpump. It should be covered. The problem is that the warranty is for parts only, and you pay for the labor, but that shouldn't be anywhere near $3k.
Depends on the labor rate at the dealership. I've seen labor as low as $75/hr and as high as $400/hr (cadillac dealer!!). His labor rate might be $220/hr (about average now).... And it's over 16 hours for the timing chain to be done....so 16x$220=about $3300....
 

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You can also check to see if coolant is moving in the overflow with the cap off IMSMC. It does circulate once the thermo opens I think....so I would see if it's moving at all....if so, it might even be worse then what you're thinking...it might be motor time.
 

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Discussion Starter #17
Got an update from the Chevy Dealer on Friday. They needed to dig deeper then the 1 hour = 100.00 per hour to 2 more hours total = 300.00 he said to check the head gasket and see if the chain was turning the water pump. They got back with me yesterday saying the head gasket was fine and the chain was turning so it should just be a water pump change. Total bill will be right at 1,200. I say sure go ahead and change it out. They get back with me this morning after getting the water pump off and said the pump and chain were turning, but the chain has a lot of slop in it. They tell me it needs a new kit installed that includes Sprockets, Chain and Tensioners. Total price is right at 2,200. While the pump is off I may as well get a new one. It is close to 300 for the pump. Grand total of little over 2,500 bucks..... Cheaper then the other dealer but still a lot of money to me. I love this car so I have to get it fixed!!!

Thanks for all of your all's responses! They was some really good info in the posts and a number of things to check.
 

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Discussion Starter #19
Make sure while they're in there they are doing the 2nd balancer chain
This is just as important!! It keeps your motor in balance.
Yes, Great point. I asked them to check all other chains etc. while in there. I asked today specifically about the timing chain, but the service rep said he thought it was on the other side but wasn't totally sure. He said he'd ask the technician about it. He did tell me one of the Tensioning guides was really loose and all of the teeth on the sprocket were wore down. I have 115.000 miles on the car.
 

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Maybe I was unclear. Every 2.0L has 2 chains, a timing chain and a balancer chain that sits directly behind the timing chain. The timing chain, while most important, DOES NOT run your waterpump. The balancer chain does. Both chains are run off sprockets on the crankshaft.
Both chains SHOULD BE REPLACED at the same time. BOTH chains are as important as each other.
 
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