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Yeah, 205 isn't overheating, so that's good. From what I've read, I think if you start seeing anything around 215 or 220, it's time to be concerned. I won't go as far as to say that the majority of mechanics do this kind of job everyday, but on the spectrum of difficulty when compared to the other things that one could qualify as "difficult," , even with our cars, a water pump change isn't a major deal for most mechanics. Labor-wise, it can be costly, sure, but technically, it's more straightforward than most jobs. Most shops have foremen who have done dozens of these jobs, and I don't think most vehicles vary that much. They also have access to many resources that explain the standard operating procedures for these situations, so while I know you're probably a bit nervous about it, I wouldn't lose much sleep over it. Price-wise, yeah, these jobs get a bit expensive and that does suck, but even for costs, it's not much to worry about because it's not the kind of labor you'd run into for something worse, like an engine swap or something extensive like that. I mean, 1,200 to even 3,000 isn't something to scoff at, sure, but your price is a pretty awesome quote.

Just be mindful of the sound I mentioned above and if it sounds like a supercharged car, make damn sure they go back in and reset / replace the tensioner. I doubt you'll have to explain that to them but if you do, be adamant about it. I hope you'll update this thread once everything is done, too. I'd like to know how things turn out.
 

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Discussion Starter · #22 ·
Well I just wasted $189 on a Diagnostic fee

they just called and said they pressure tested the cooling system over night and it didn't leak any pressure
So without a leak they can't justifiably change the water pump

it was a good 1.5 x 1.5 foot circle in my driveway when this all started and I even saw liquid by the pass side of the engine

but what can I do now other than pay them that $189 and hope it never leaked again ? And if it does then bring it in and hope they find a leak too ? I guess so

now the car is unreliable to drive IMO if it could potentially spew a lot of coolant somewhere and leave me stuck

not sure what to do except pay , and drive it cautiously and always Check under it and the coolant resiviour and the temp as I drive

they offered to test it overnight again so I said yes in hopes they find it leaking and do the water pump

or if it holds I guess it's $1600 I don't have to pay yet
 

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How many miles did you say your car has? There's no definite duration for the water pumps, but I believe they should be expected to go out around 70k miles, but I might be wrong on that. Either way, if I were you, I'd bite the bullet and just get it done anyway despite their justifications. The seals have the tendency of temporarily "fixing" themselves (they can reseal for a certain variable duration due to the seal composition mixed with [I guess] both the chemicals in the coolant along with the temperature variance which can assist in expanding the seal itself]), but understand that this is temporary and that pump is likely on borrowed time as long as the leak you saw really did come from the water pump and not something else. Did they suggest anything else as being the culprit? Don't worry about the car: you can still drive it while it's doing this, but in doing so, you'll have absolutely to stay on top of your coolant levels and temps for obvious reasons and honestly, try to avoid driving her if you can until this is fixed--no point in tempting fate. My story is similar to the situation you're describing: the day I saw my big puddle of coolant under my car in my garage, I cleaned it all up and once the floor dried off, I didn't see anymore coolant under the car. It was an odd behavior until I learned what was going on. It's like the material composition of the seal interacts with the actual coolant itself and causes a temporary re-seal. I wouldn't be surprised if this behavior is by design, but I don't know... It's odd, for sure, but for someone who isn't familiar with this is likely to lead to an assumption that you don't need to change it. As long as you know for certain that the leak came from the water pump, it's time to change it.

But that's just my understanding / experience with this. Maybe someone else on here can throw in their insights and come up with something else to consider. I'd still bite the bullet and get it done, especially if your car is over, say, 70k. Many will suggest getting the thermostat replaced while they're in there, too. That's all up to you and the mechanic.
 

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Discussion Starter · #24 ·
My car has 115,000 on it
They do not want to replace it until they personally see it leaking - I guess because it's a dealership
He said he "doesn't want to sell me something I don't need."
 

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I guess it's up to you then to either do it anyway or just try your best to record the situation using something like your phone's camera to catch it in the act. One would believe they should've seen some residue or leftover spillage under the pump area if they went under the car to look at everything, but I guess that just depends on how long it took them to work on your problem after it all happened, too (and whether it's really the water pump that's leaking)...

In their defense, especially if they're not very familiar with this kind of situation for our cars and didn't see it leaking, their response makes sense. (I guess...) But given your car's age and mileage, I'd do it anyway if you can afford to because if it was the water pump, trust me, it will leak again...and it's better to bite the bullet now and avoid more problems instead of having it stop you dead at the side of the road only to then be forced to get it towed by someone who (hopefully) doesn't break your wheel assemblies or anything else with shoddy towing skills and resources or inadvertently allow your engine to overheat thereby causing even worse problems.

It's your call.

But if it IS the water pump, then you can still drive it. Just be extremely careful. Keep a vigilant eye on that temp reading (anything over 210 in my opinion merits pulling over) and check the coolant reservoir each time you get ready to drive it. Keep some extra coolant in the car while this is unfolding to be as safe as possible.
 

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I went through the same sort of thing when my original pump went. It left a BIG puddle in my garage, but the dealership said they didn't find any leak. A couple weeks later the thing had coolant pouring out of it, and I limped to the dealership. It ended up leaving a big mess in their fancy receiving area. I was like "Well, do you believe me now?"
 

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I went through the same sort of thing when my original pump went. It left a BIG puddle in my garage, but the dealership said they didn't find any leak. A couple weeks later the thing had coolant pouring out of it, and I limped to the dealership. It ended up leaving a big mess in their fancy receiving area. I was like "Well, do you believe me now?"
This is a big part of why I stopped taking mine to dealerships unless I have to. They also broke my front fenders after I specifically warned them about the risk.
 

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Discussion Starter · #28 · (Edited)
Just picked up the car from the dealer

they did the airbag recall
And didn't charge me a diagnostic fee for the coolant pressure test

highest on way home 201

I'm stopped to
Pick my daughter up so we'll see if there's a puddle

no puddle - 205 Highest temp
Park now my driveway will see if it leaks
 

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Discussion Starter · #29 ·
Oh and I forgot to mention he said the normal
Pressure for the filing system is 18 psi and they did the pressure test at 20 and no leak

Drive it home about half hour and then it sat and then drive it again for about 15 minutes snd then It sat
hasn't leaked since that first time weeks back

it took a good three weeks before I was able to get it in to the dealer so in that time the coolant puddle in the driveway evaporated and the car sat in the driveway in the direct sun and. heat of long island

the service advisor said usually they will see evidence of the leak like a residue but they didn't
 
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