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Discussion Starter #61
To address the last engine code (P0807 Clutch Position Sensor), I bought a new sensor, installed it, plugged in, push in the clutch, turn the key aaannnddd nothing. No start. This is a new sensor. Am I missing something? JohnWR said something about calibrating it? If that’s the case, Is the only way to do it is with a Tech2?

checking the wiring, doesn’t seem to have anything that immediately jumps out. Any ideas?
 

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adjust the arm. It wont let you start because it doesnt think the clutch is depressed?
 

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Discussion Starter #63
adjust the arm. It wont let you start because it doesnt think the clutch is depressed?
Can you please clarify what you mean by adjusting the arm?

The “fork” (or whatever it is called) of the sensor is in the pin of the clutch. So when I push the clutch in with my hand, I can feel the sensor is also moving.
 

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I have an automatic so cannot give you details, but the sensor must be some sort of an arm that detects the movement of the clutch pedal and can tell if it is fully depressed. I would take the sensor out of the car, and measure the "switch" contacts. I am not sure if it it NO or NC but moving the actuator arm/button/rod should change it from one to the other so the computer senses that the clutch is depressed. Bound to be a way to either adjust the mounting or the throw of the actuator. Thats the best I can offer, having not owned a stick shift sky. That is just an engineer talking about how things work. I could be completely wrong, and have been.
 

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To address the last engine code (P0807 Clutch Position Sensor), I bought a new sensor, installed it, plugged in, push in the clutch, turn the key aaannnddd nothing. No start. This is a new sensor. Am I missing something? JohnWR said something about calibrating it? If that’s the case, Is the only way to do it is with a Tech2?

checking the wiring, doesn’t seem to have anything that immediately jumps out. Any ideas?
The sensor has to be calibrated (the manual calls it a sensor learn) to tell the ECM where fully depressed is and yes, it takes a Tech2 or emulator.
 

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Discussion Starter #66
The sensor has to be calibrated (the manual calls it a sensor learn) to tell the ECM where fully depressed is and yes, it takes a Tech2 or emulator.
There is no way I can afford a Tech2. Do you recommend an emulator that works well and doesn’t cost a kidney?
 

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There is no way I can afford a Tech2. Do you recommend an emulator that works well and doesn’t cost a kidney?
The VCX Nano works with a computer to emulate the Tech2. My success with it was hit-and-miss, so I can't actually say i recommend it, but others have reported that it worked well for them. VX Diagshop sells direct, or you can get one on Amazon.
 

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Discussion Starter #68
The VCX Nano works with a computer to emulate the Tech2. My success with it was hit-and-miss, so I can't actually say i recommend it, but others have reported that it worked well for them. VX Diagshop sells direct, or you can get one on Amazon.
Great thanks. I’ll check the VCX Nano.
I reached out to VX Diagshop directly to ask them about compatibility and they could not confirm that the Sky is compatible. So I didn’t pull the trigger on that one.
 

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Great thanks. I’ll check the VCX Nano.
I reached out to VX Diagshop directly to ask them about compatibility and they could not confirm that the Sky is compatible. So I didn’t pull the trigger on that one.
Try a forum search for "VCX". This was one of the hits I just got (for a thread I was involved in a while back):
 

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Discussion Starter #71
@AutoRaiders, so what's the status on your Sky?
Thanks for asking. I am enjoying it 🙂 I didn’t realize how much fun a convertible is, especially a roaster. The only downside for me is that I am 6’4” 220 and I don’t exactly fit comfortably in this thing, but it’s not bad.

I have a few small items left on my to do and 2 larger ones. To knock out the small ones, I bought VCX tuner and have been waiting for it for almost a month. Once it comes in, I hope I am able to calibrate the sensors needed.The other 2 items are: AC and cooling system.

not worried about the AC as the top has not been up since I’ve had it and it’s not my daily driver. Over heating is still my higher priority. I have driven it to work several times (15 miles each way or 30 min) and a couple of times it got warm right as I pulled in. I am at a loss for what else to check for. New water pump, new thermostat, fans work and kick in at the right temps (low/high) new coolant, installed 1 way check valves to help with air bubbles, new reservoir cap, tested coolant lines to 12-15 psi and no leaks. No idea what else to do. 🤷‍♂️
 

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Thanks for asking. I am enjoying it 🙂 I didn’t realize how much fun a convertible is, especially a roaster. The only downside for me is that I am 6’4” 220 and I don’t exactly fit comfortably in this thing, but it’s not bad.

I have a few small items left on my to do and 2 larger ones. To knock out the small ones, I bought VCX tuner and have been waiting for it for almost a month. Once it comes in, I hope I am able to calibrate the sensors needed.The other 2 items are: AC and cooling system.

not worried about the AC as the top has not been up since I’ve had it and it’s not my daily driver. Over heating is still my higher priority. I have driven it to work several times (15 miles each way or 30 min) and a couple of times it got warm right as I pulled in. I am at a loss for what else to check for. New water pump, new thermostat, fans work and kick in at the right temps (low/high) new coolant, installed 1 way check valves to help with air bubbles, new reservoir cap, tested coolant lines to 12-15 psi and no leaks. No idea what else to do. 🤷‍♂️
Considering all the issues you started with, I'm glad you are able to at least drive it around now and enjoy it. Hopefully you can calibrate your sensors and keep checking off that punch list. Even with the top off I would still consider AC a must in Houston! I'm absolutely guilty of running my AC with the top down especially at stop lights. With everything you have done to the cooling system, I'm not sure why you would still be running hot though. What temps is the car actually running at that you consider over heating?
 

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Discussion Starter #73
Ha! That’s true. AC is still on the list but less of a priority. I enjoy problem solving and in the pandemic it gives me something to tinker with. My only reason I don’t enjoy it to the fullest is because I’m too damn big for it. Haha I definetly enjoy driving it though once I’m in it 🙂

I won’t let it run past 230 F. Of course static fluid across the temp sensor still heats up to around 240 even with the engine off and fans going. I feel like I can see the thermostat open because it would climb to 195 at a steady pace and then between 195-199 it would drop to 186 or so. And then climb back up to 200 and drop to 194. When driving (moving) the temp climbs to about 205 and drops to 198 as i start moving. Which makes sense. But it turns into 2 steps forward 1 step back. Climbs to 210 drops to 205, climbs to 215, drops to 210 and so on. Those are just examples not exact temps when this happens
 

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I'm hoping when you did the thermostat you used a genuine ACDelco. These are the only thermostats that seem to work in our cars. DDM Dave can attest to this. There have been many people that have bought other brands and complained having overheating issues or the problematic "---" screen.
 

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Discussion Starter #75
I took a break for a few weeks to go on vacation and wait for the VCX NANO that I bought to come in. Well, it just came in and i installed it earlier today. I have never used a tech2 before and have been playing with it for about an hour and been able to control door locks, trunk, horn, ect. The goal of this was to calibrate the clutch position sensor. I am unable to do so.. can anyone walk me through the steps?

First I want to make sure I am in the right set up, can someone confirm? From the mail menu I enter Diagnostics -> 2008 -> passenger car -> Saturn -> M -> Vehicle control systems -> 2.0L L4 LNF -> Module Set Up -> Engine Control Module

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The select Clutch Pedal Position Learn. I assume I am in the right place?
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I then follow the directions to “fully depress and hold clutch pedal” But it doesn’t seem to learn it.
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So then in this window I hit learn again and receive this message: “output control not allowed, DTC present.” I can only assume that it is the “P0808 CPP sensor circuit high voltage” code I get. When I try to clear it using Tech2, I am unable to do so. I assume I am not doing it right. Can anyone help?
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FYI, I replaced the starter relay with a brand new one today.
 

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Discussion Starter #76
I'm hoping when you did the thermostat you used a genuine ACDelco. These are the only thermostats that seem to work in our cars. DDM Dave can attest to this. There have been many people that have bought other brands and complained having overheating issues or the problematic "---" screen.
Hey Ghost, thanks for the comment. I got one from O'Reilly which is the link below. I guess it's a Murray Plus #4698 thermostat and says it opens at 180ºF. I guess I didn't know any different... Should I go through the pain in the ass process again and change it out?

If I am reading the right part number for AC Delco (for 2.0T), the opening temp is at 198ºF. could 18º opening temp be the problem? I guess once the coolant is at 180ºF then the thermostat is always open and doesn't allow for it to cool through the radiator resulting in a steady increase in temp? is that a fair assessment?

 

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Hey Ghost, thanks for the comment. I got one from O'Reilly which is the link below. I guess it's a Murray Plus #4698 thermostat and says it opens at 180ºF. I guess I didn't know any different... Should I go through the pain in the ass process again and change it out?

If I am reading the right part number for AC Delco (for 2.0T), the opening temp is at 198ºF. could 18º opening temp be the problem? I guess once the coolant is at 180ºF then the thermostat is always open and doesn't allow for it to cool through the radiator resulting in a steady increase in temp? is that a fair assessment?

That is entirely up to you. I think you have it backwards though because mine opens at 180. And mine came from the dealership in an ACDelco box. If you do a search and talk to Dave at DDM he'll tell you, the one part you don't skimp on is the thermostat because there have been so many issues with aftermarket ones. For the record, the same is true of the Jeep Wranglers.....
 

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Discussion Starter #78
Switching gears for a minute and tackling the AC question. One of the error codes that the Tech2 Emulator lulled was P0532: AC pressure Sensor circuit low voltage. Now I u sweat and the way the pressure sensor works and that it converts pressure EOB the line into a voltage read out: when refrigerant is low I believe it’s 1.4v and when over pressured it’s 5v. I also think the pressure sensor might be bad.

I have manually engaged the AC clutch and put a pressure gauge on the low side and although it was reading slightly low, it was still in the “green”. So pressure sensor “shouldn’t” read low voltage. So I wanted to jump the sensor (not the clutch) but it’s a 3 wire connector, not the old 2 wire that you can jump with a paper clip.

so of the 3 wires going to the pressure sensor, which ones are which? I believe they are power, ground, and signal but don’t know which color is which. Does anyone know how to jump the 3 wire connector to test if AC kicks on? I assume it’s power and signal? Thank you!

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You can't jump anything because you will get a signal that is either too high or too low.
 
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