[JohnWR]

Took the RL in for a four-wheel alignment including the use of my new Caster Gauge.

 

[JohnWR]

If you want the dual outlets, the RL dual outlet muffler will give a deeper exhaust note. You can just change the muffler if you want to, but changing the whole pipe is quite easy.

 

[JohnWR]

Only 61? If the sun is out it only has to be above 33 to put the top down.

 

[JohnWR]

thanks ts,just in process to figure out how to flip these images that show up
everywhere straight up but on this forum they load upside down.

1) Save them to your computer
2) Open with a photo program
3) Save with a different name.

 

[JohnWR]

.......That's odd...IAT should be pretty close to ambient ........

When the car is stationary the air at the intake will get hotter simply because there is no movement. Once there is some forward velocity the temperature will quickly drop to ambient.

When we were testing to decide whether a CAI was of any use we instrumented the underhood area with thermocouples and found that there was quite a bit of extra heat at the intake until about 30 MPH, then it went away.

 

[JohnWR]

But wouldn't the IAT 2 suffer the same issue?

It would, but not as severely as IAT 1. IAT 1 is going to directly reflect the temperature at the intake, which is effectively underhood temperature when the car isn't moving. IAT 2 is going to be tempered by the thermal mass of the IC which is more exposed to ambient air and is likely to also see some airflow from the fan.

The key here is how long the stop lasted, and how much the temperatures actually changed.

 

[JohnWR]

I forced it to take me to San Juan for a Margarita and then I didnt let it have one.

Probably a good thing. I don't think they lke tequila. Did you treat it to sme nice fresh gasoline instead?

 

[JohnWR]

Finished changing all forward lights to LED’s, installed the stubby antenna, and applied two good coats of wax.
Did some research into tires and wheels.
Undecided as to whether to stay with 18’s, or go to 19’s. This offset has me wondering, especially if I want to go bigger brakes.

The stock wheels will accommodate bigger brakes.
I assume this change is for appearance, as neither bigger wheels or bigger brakes will enhance performance.

 

[JohnWR]

Considering upgrading the stereo in my Sky to a new Kenwood that has GPS and Apple Play..... hesitant due to reading about problems related with changing out the O/E unit..... have it in my cart from Crutchfield as I’m typing.....

What problems are you worried about?

 

[JohnWR]

Regarding bigger brakes, wheels, and tires.

I was surprised that the chrome plated 5-spoke wheels with tires is so very heavy. Adding bigger brakes will increase unsprung weight even further. Pay attention to the weight of larger aftermarket wheels and tires and brakes. Less unsprung weight should improve ride-quality and performance handling.

For OE wheels in that size, they are ridiculously heavy, but you can certainly buy lighter ones. Tires can vary a lot also, with "better" tires generally being lighter.

"Big brakes" are more cosmetic than performance, as exceptionally good braking can be achieved simply by switching the stock pads to a "better" compound.

Based on several theoretical criteria, the optimum performance shuld be achievable with 17 inch wheels, high quality tires, and high performance brake pads.

 

[JohnWR]

Matthew.
Tim gave me permission to share his e-mail address. You can contact him here.

I edited this to remove the email address. I suggest that you send it via PM (ie: Conversation).

 

[JohnWR]

Graham, sent you a PM.

John, good lookin out for Tim so he doesn't get spammed with emails!

I sent you a PM, in case yours didn't work.

 

[JohnWR]

Did mine with a pair of channel locks and a C-clamp

Channel-locks? I have used needle-nose to screw pistons in, but never channel-locks. When things go well the pliers do fine, but occasionally they just can't get it done and the proper tool is a lifesaver.

 

[JohnWR]

I still miss the antennas that used to be in the windshield.

They do make for a very clean appearance, but their reception is not always good, they require better electronics to work at all, they essentially double the cost of a replacement windshield, and unless you buy one from the OEM (at even higher cost) they may require tuning to work properly.

 

[JohnWR]

I would not choose to add either one to the car, but the XM/OnStar doesn't bother me enough to go to any effort to remove or replace. I put a small cap on in place of the whip, since I never use the radio, but I do carry the whip in the car in case of a radio "emergency".

 

[JohnWR]

Nice job!

 

[JohnWR]

I always wondered why the attraction to the small back-up light version.

My back-up light is full size, but smoked for some reason. I want to replace it with a full plain clear lens. Afterall, it is the only light, and the more light emitted, the better I can see backing up.
View attachment 120075
I thought there must be a film added from a previous owner, but NO, it's a real smoked lens. I hate it.

I wonder if early production had a smoked lens, later changed to a clear lens to address complaints from owners, and maybe even the NTSB got involved.

I believe that my NA predates yours and it has a clear backup light. Yours could have been spray-timted.

 

[JohnWR]

I ordered another fog light switch and the knee bolster with provision for two switches.
Hopefully we can figure out how to make it work.

The OE switch is momentary, so it will not be able to directly control the light. There is a really small chance that the control function is programmed into the BCM, but there is a distinct lack of documentation for the Opel, so even if the programming is there you may have trouble accessing it. You may need an independent flip-flop circuit, or a different switch.

 

[JohnWR]

I rubbed vigorously for a while using Mequire's #12 compound, but there is no change in the center backup light lens. I therefore declare the smoked lens to be original as shown.

I will be changing lenses to a clear one, hopefully this year. I want the lens to be 100% clear, not 50% clear and 50% red. I want as much light as possible when backing up in the dark.

I am curious. Is this an Opel fixture? What is the red lens for? A 4th brake light? It surely reduces backup lighting. I also do not like the athetics of the color "red" in that area of the car.

The smoked lens looks great but reduces backup lighting. I feel the 100% clear lens is a good compromise between athetics and functionality.

Yes, the two-color light is for the Opel. The red lens meets the European requirement for a rear fog light, and the Opel has a second fog light switch for it.