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Easier than most people think. Great addition if you do any driving in cooler weather.
Got pics of where you put the switches?
I put mine in the panel under the radio that holds the passenger seat indicator and the ESC button (if equipped).
 

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Product links and photos are usually nice additions to posts in this area. Someone's going to ask for them anyway.

Cheers! :)
Have to dig that info up…It's a kit similar to this one (the one I purchased is no longer on Amazon). The trick is careful disassembly- when taking the seat covers off, DO NOT forcibly remove them! The contours of the covers are held in place by velcro strips; the best way to remove them is to use a spudger (or a butter knife) to separate the velcro fuzz and hooks. If they are forcibly removed, the hook portion will tear out fo the foam and you'll spend the afternoon reattaching them...

Otherwise, the install is easy.


 

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Well done with the seat heater installation. I like that your kit has adjustable temp knobs instead of on-off switches. Can you adjust the heat gradually with those knobs? or are they just a 2- or 3-position type of knob.

EDIT: Just opened the product page and saw it's a 6-position knob. Not bad. Thanks
 

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Well done with the seat heater installation. I like that your kit has adjustable temp knobs instead of on-off switches. Can you adjust the heat gradually with those knobs? or are they just a 2- or 3-position type of knob.

EDIT: Just opened the product page and saw it's a 6-position knob. Not bad. Thanks
Yes, the heat is linear based on knob position. The beauty is that the 6 position switch is a universal switch that cen be retrofit to any kit.
 

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Have to dig that info up…It's a kit similar to this one (the one I purchased is no longer on Amazon). The trick is careful disassembly- when taking the seat covers off, DO NOT forcibly remove them! The contours of the covers are held in place by velcro strips; the best way to remove them is to use a spudger (or a butter knife) to separate the velcro fuzz and hooks. If they are forcibly removed, the hook portion will tear out fo the foam and you'll spend the afternoon reattaching them...

Otherwise, the install is easy.


Where did you place the elements? So they attach to the seat cover or cushion?
Really like to see a write-up on this.
 

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Where did you place the elements? So they attach to the seat cover or cushion?
Really like to see a write-up on this.
I didn't photo document the install, but I can describe;

Tools:
15mm socket with driver and extension of choice
T30 for seat belt removal
A sharpie to mark the heating pad for cutting
A razor for cutting the heating element pad to clear seat velcro points
2 add-a-circuit taps for power
A drill with appropriate sized bit (measure your switch diameter)
A thin plastic spudger or butter knife

BEFORE INSTALL

Prewire everything and test to ensure which switch is connected to which element- then use your sharpie to clearly mark the install positions. In my case, the switch harness was marked "R" and "L"- the seat harness was short on the drivers side and long on the passenger side. (most cars have a fuse box on the drivers side).

So- I had to switch the switch harness (R to L and vice versa) and reverse the seat harness (short on the passenger side, and long on the drivers side).

SEAT BACK
1) pop the convertible top and store in trunk
2) remove the negative battery terminal
3) remove the seat nuts with the 15mm socket and extension- slide the seat back and forth for access.
-power clips are on the bottom front of the passenger seat, and bottom rear of the drivers seat
4) remove the seatbelt Torx bolt
5) remove the seats
6) unzip the back of the seat. Next, unclasp the plastic rails that connect the seat front and back. Now, fold the seat forward and pull the cloth/leather from the back to the front.
- this is where the spudger/butter knife are used. The shape of the seats are derived from the various points where the fabric/leather is velcroed to the sculpted seat foam- so use the spudger or butter knife to separate the pile (on the seat cloth) from the hook (glued to the seat foam). Take your time and don't rush- unless you like epoxying the hook portion back to the seat foam! As you free the velcro, peel the seat fabric up.

7) grab one of the heat elements. Its carbon fiber mech sandwiched between 2 fabric layers. Around the perimeter you'll see a solid line about 1cm wide- DO NOT CUT IT! That perimeter lead is the power for the mesh, and it's connected to the wiring that is run thru the back of the seat cushion.
- lay the element onto the seatback, and use the sharpie to draw slots approximating where the hook velcro is on the seat foam. Make sure your slots are wide enough for the loop velcro to pass thru. The slot does not have to go edge to edge- about 1/4" inside the 1cm perimeter wire is fine.
- use the razor to cut the slots.
- use a screwdriver to put a hold in the foam just inside the lower hook velcro strip- then place the cable thru the hole. If necessary, sculpt the foam around the wire to ensure a flat fit.

8) once the slots are cut, remove the protective backing from the adhesive strips and put the element in place.

Do the same for the other seat back.

SEAT BOTTOM

Driver side fabric is held on by plastic slot clips, while the passenger side is held on by 4 plastic push pins on the side rails (if broken during removal, they are available at any auto parts store in the "Help" section).

Tap the push pins from the inside to remove, or use a door panel removal tool.

Follow the above with regards to removing/reinstalling the seat cloth from the foam and the element installation.

ELECTRICAL

My kit was prewired, so it was simply a matter of drilling 2 holes for the switches, running the wiring, and plugging it together. I used 2 add-a circuit taps in the footwell fusebox- one for the 15A power (used the door lock circuit) and 1 for the key sensing (used the wiper circuit). Drilled the 2 holes in the switch panel and installed the switches. Next, I ran the switch harness from the fusebox to the center console below the radio, and plugged it in.

Finally, I ran the wiring to the seatback area along the edge of the center console, and plugged it it,

Reinstall the seats, reattach the negative lead, and enjoy!

Taking my time, it took about 3 hours. I could install a set in 90 minutes now, tool up to tool down.
 

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Blu ('08 Red Line) got new spark plugs this morning, just shy of 51k miles. I'm pretty sure I picked up 20 hp.....but that seems to happen when I wash the car too soooo....
Seriously, the idle is smoother but power on the road seems the same. The owner's manual says change plugs at 100k but turbo cars tend to need them more often.
Tools needed:
10mm socket
5/8" spark plug socket
6" extension
Appropriate ratchet wrench
Anti seize for plug threads
Dielectric grease for top of plug
Decent light under the hood
About 1/2 hour

Here's a pic of the OEM plugs.

Automotive lighting Liquid Font Audio equipment Electronic device
 

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Fifteen Minutes Well Spent

Sometimes it's the little things that can make a big difference. In this case it's panel trim.
Automotive tire Audio equipment Gadget Font Automotive wheel system


The trim inserts (fairly) easily into your inner door panel. I used the orange plastic spudger tool (shown above) to separate the panel just a smidgen as I worked my way around the panel edge. The result is a nice highlight for those of us who don't have color (other than black) panels.

Hood Vehicle Automotive mirror Car Automotive lighting


Hood Automotive lighting Automotive tire Trunk Bumper


The trim comes in black, blue, yellow, red and chrome. Some are available on Amazon, the blue is only available here: Store | Cowles Products

There's enough left in that 20' strip to do the dash too.
Gear shift Vehicle Car Speedometer Steering wheel


If you do the dash, you'll need adhesion promoter to get double sided tape or glue to stick in the area over the glove box. This stuff worked great and there's plenty of it: https://amzn.to/3THvY39

Cheers!
 

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Ok, just one more (for awhile).

How about a top protector? I know, you don't need this but it might dress your car up a little, especially if you show it or your 15 (ish) year old top is looking a little raggedy.

Luggage and bags Sleeve Bag Travel Font


There are custom embroidered blankets for the purpose (around $160) and likely other solutions. This one cost $25 and requires no machinery beyond a pair of scissors and a ruler. I used a 3mm thick yoga mat and printable vinyl sheets ($13 and $12). Of course you could use the mat by itself and save $12.

While I waited a whole day for Amazon to deliver the goods I worked on creating an image to stick on the mat. The top two images on the left are free pics downloaded from the internet then either manipulated or colored or both.

Wheel Automotive parking light Tire Land vehicle Motor vehicle


Eventually the black/white/red version got the nod...at least for now. A great thing about the vinyl is it can be peeled off and replaced easily. I printed the image on vinyl using an ordinary home ink jet printer then cut the oval from the 8.5x11" sheet and stuck it to the mat.

Rectangle Wood Font Motor vehicle Electric blue


A piece of cardboard then a piece of scrap 2x6 and a couple of 1-gallon water jugs were placed on top as a press for a couple of hours. That ironed out the wrinkles.
I'm fairly happy with the end result and anyone can do it.

Automotive parking light Land vehicle Car Vehicle Motor vehicle


Product Sleeve Yellow Font Rectangle


Product Font Rectangle Screenshot Technology


Brown Luggage and bags Bag Material property Tints and shades


In case you were wondering what you might do with the extra 19 sheets of printable vinyl in the package, here's one option. Decorate your fuse box cover.
Font Technology Electronic device Display device Multimedia


Or use that black rectangle on the left front wheel liner to keep important data handy.

Wood Font Material property Audio equipment Flooring


Cheers!
 

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Added A Little Frontal Decor

While I really like switchback turn signals the ones I installed are a little too bright....dazzling even. I've toned it down a bit by adding tint. Slots (which require an Xacto knife and tongue firmly pressed in corner of mouth for full concentration) allow the turn signal amber to shine brightly.
The center of the photo below shows my pattern and the ready to mount tint panels.
Tools Needed
1. Tint https://amzn.to/3QSKTpu
2. Scissors
3. Xacto Knife or Similar
4. Ruler
5. Hair Dryer
6. Small Squeegee
Car Automotive parking light Land vehicle Vehicle Automotive side marker light


Cheers!
Automotive parking light Grille Automotive lighting Hood Motor vehicle
 
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