Saturn Sky Forum banner

1 - 20 of 22 Posts

·
Registered
Joined
·
283 Posts
Discussion Starter #1
So im between:

BC Coilovers, ZB-01-BR ($995 on amazon)
KW V1, KW-10260049 ($1410 on Fitment Industries)
St X, ST-SUSPENSION-90649 ($870 on Fitment Industries)

From my understanding the BC's will give me the most adjustment for the price. The KW's are preset for each height level to dampen properly for the car(so less work, but no personal control). And the ST's were designed in conjunction with KW to be basicly the same as the KW's but made with slightly cheaper parts. Work, act, and ride about the same...for nearly half the price. But wont last as long?

Im leaning toward the ST's. but i havent read about anyone using them and wanted some input.
Any of these would be a stiffness improvement over stock(especially mine which are now sagging from being...13+ years old now).

The car is a street driver for me, i dont race it. Though i would love to be able to take it to the track someday when i have the chance.
So stiff, but not harsh suspension would be great for me ride wise.
All opinions greatly apreciated.

Thanks guys =)
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
2,369 Posts
I have the BC Racing and am a fan. Excellent quality and great price. And great range of adjustability.
 
  • Like
Reactions: Draike13

·
Registered
Joined
·
476 Posts
I did the BC’s as well. More for the ability to control the height I want for the car. Not a preset spring height. The adjustabily was a welcomed bonus.
 

·
Super Moderator
Joined
·
5,784 Posts
So assuming i can find springs at a good price...
How do the FE3's compare to the BC's?
I am going to throw my fairly unique and quite unpopular opinion in here and say that you are actually better off with the FE2 suspension for a street-driven, non-competition car. I have one of each that I drive alternately on a variety of twisty back roads, and the FE2 is easier for me to drive faster, within the limits possible on public roads. I think that there is a lot of thought, caused by decades of too-soft suspensions on "performance" cars, that anything stock is too soft. Perceptions can be very powerful, but back-to-back experience on the same roads with the different suspensions has convinced me that sometimes more is just more, and frequently it is actually too much.

If you want to autocross or track your car you need a different setup, but my experience is that a car that is good for either one of those is not going to be as good on open roads. Clearly the better drivers on the forum will disagree, and they may even be correct, but I think it is important to analyze what you don't like about what you have, what its actual effect is on your driving, and why.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
283 Posts
Discussion Starter #9
I am going to throw my fairly unique and quite unpopular opinion in here and say that you are actually better off with the FE2 suspension for a street-driven, non-competition car. I have one of each that I drive alternately on a variety of twisty back roads, and the FE2 is easier for me to drive faster, within the limits possible on public roads. I think that there is a lot of thought, caused by decades of too-soft suspensions on "performance" cars, that anything stock is too soft. Perceptions can be very powerful, but back-to-back experience on the same roads with the different suspensions has convinced me that sometimes more is just more, and frequently it is actually too much.

If you want to autocross or track your car you need a different setup, but my experience is that a car that is good for either one of those is not going to be as good on open roads. Clearly the better drivers on the forum will disagree, and they may even be correct, but I think it is important to analyze what you don't like about what you have, what its actual effect is on your driving, and why.
Good information.
I like a harder, stiffer suspension. The stock on the base model of the car isnt "bad", but defintely not as stiff as i would like. I definitely feel a bit of body roll on tight corners(I live in southeast missouri where we have nothing but tight corners and county roads).

On top of that, i am looking forward to be able to lower the car just a bit to see how i like that. I know the 3 i listed are able to adjust ride height. I dont know anything about them, but i assume the FE3 are not adjustable in anyway?

Not the end of the world if i can get a good enough price, but i would like to be able to try a lowered ride. 90% just for looks, if im being honest)
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
2,369 Posts
The BC guys will let you specify customized spring rates if you want. Stock BC shocks for these cars come with.

Suggest that you read this thread.

 
  • Like
Reactions: Draike13

·
Super Moderator
Joined
·
5,784 Posts
Central Kentucky has lots of tight corners and country roads as well, but we also have freezing winters and the pavement damage that brings. We actually have what may be some of the worst conditions for pavement, with winters that rotate several times through dry, cold rain, and sub-freezing temperatures along with wet springs and semi-drought summers. I can tolerate a bit of body roll if the car is less susceptible to dancing across the pavement because it is too stiff to tolerate a series of single-wheel bumps caused by frost-heaves in the pavement.

If you want to lower the car you are going to have to go aftermarket. I scrape the nose on driveway aprons and speed bumps enough already that lowering is not in my plans.

Everything is a compromise, and we each have to decide what is important to us as well as what we are willing to do to get it. In the same vein i give up some summer performance by running on all season tires so that i can have significantly more cold weather performance without having to invest in two complete sets of tires.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
283 Posts
Discussion Starter #12
Decided to go with the BC's. Got them put in last night. Set them to factory levels(nearly) and as soft as they can ride. Going to turn that harder as i play with them a bit to see what i like the feel of.
Already they are so much of an improvement over the stock i cannot put it into words.

To be fair, this was not about the quality of the stock originally, its that mine are original to the 07 car, and have 150k miles on them. They needed replaced. The rears were rusted completely and the springs on all 4 points were worn down heavily.

I would recommend these to anyone who is wanting an upgrade. I understand why everyone calls them the "biggest bang for the buck". They really are.

What levels on dampening does everyone recommend for "Spirited driving" mostly town driving.
I run hard, but our streets are horrible here. So where i like rigid, the definitely dont need to be all the way up if i understand that correctly.
 

·
Super Moderator
Joined
·
5,784 Posts
My experience has been that, within the range available for the Kappas, stiffer feels faster while softer is faster. Everyone else is likely to disagree, but when I am not trying to drive a particular speed, I drive my NA faster than my RL. Both have stock suspensions with ProBeams and are running on the same tires with the same alignment.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
2,369 Posts
What levels on dampening does everyone recommend for "Spirited driving" mostly town driving.
I run hard, but our streets are horrible here. So where i like rigid, the definitely dont need to be all the way up if i understand that correctly.
Try 5 clicks from full soft and if that is too stiff, back down from there.
 
  • Like
Reactions: Draike13

·
Registered
Joined
·
237 Posts
Looks like OP has an answer but wanted to point out that the BCs can come with different springs as well. The swift springs option is supposedly much nicer on the road, but havent seen anything kappa specific.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
283 Posts
Discussion Starter #16
Looks like OP has an answer but wanted to point out that the BCs can come with different springs as well. The swift springs option is supposedly much nicer on the road, but havent seen anything kappa specific.
I tried finding more info on springs, but there are a lot more opinions than i had time to go through. One day ill order a different set im sure(They seem pretty affordable from where ive found them) and try and get some more info on what would be the best way to go.

Currently i got my holes cut in the trunk for adjustment, have mine set to 3F/6R from soft.May adjust a little more, but it feels great. Now i need to go in and lower them to where i want the car sitting, and have the wheels adjusted.
I found before a thread on here talking about the "perfect alignment" on our wheels, but does anyone have any inputs on those?
 

·
Super Moderator
Joined
·
11,238 Posts
For daily driving, go with the factory settings on your alignment. You're not going for high performance driving and the stock settings are great for daily driving with a spirited mountain drive every now and again.

Adjustments are going to be totally up to you and this goes for spring rates too. I found the 7k front and rear combo of the standard BC setup too firm up front and the car liked to push too much for my style. A set of softer springs up front and the car feels more balanced.

If you like more initial turn in, a little toe out (like 0.5*) will give you more turn in but the car will feel very responsive and twitchy. Your firmer front springs will also give you more response in transitions but will take away mid and late corner grip because you're not getting the weight transfer to generate more grip. If you find you are not getting the mid corner grip you want, soften up the front springs and give yourself 0 toe or a slight bit of toe out. The car will still turn in well without losing that grip through the turn.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
2,369 Posts
Adjustments are going to be totally up to you and this goes for spring rates too. I found the 7k front and rear combo of the standard BC setup too firm up front and the car liked to push too much for my style. A set of softer springs up front and the car feels more balanced.
I also have the 7kg springs front and rear so know what you are talking about. What sway bars do you have on your car? I have ZOK on both ends (many prefer just the uprated front for solo IIRC) and am pretty happy with the transitional handling. I had actually ordered softer springs for the front based on this

BC Racing BR Coilovers With Custom Spring Rates (he ordered 6 kg front and 8 kg rears)

but they shipped with the stiffer fronts so I installed them to see how they would drive and thought they were fine.
 

·
Super Moderator
Joined
·
11,238 Posts
I also have the 7kg springs front and rear so know what you are talking about. What sway bars do you have on your car? I have ZOK on both ends (many prefer just the uprated front for solo IIRC) and am pretty happy with the transitional handling. I had actually ordered softer springs for the front based on this

BC Racing BR Coilovers With Custom Spring Rates (he ordered 6 kg front and 8 kg rears)

but they shipped with the stiffer fronts so I installed them to see how they would drive and thought they were fine.
I have a Z0K rear bar and a FE2 front bar. I might go to an FE3 front bar as the back can brake loose sometimes after corner entry so taking away a bit of the front bite away doing that.

7k springs with the Z0K front and rear is going to take some of that steering away. If I tracked my car I'd probably have stiffer springs all around and the stiffer Z0K front swaybar.
 
1 - 20 of 22 Posts
Top