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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Hello everyone, me again. I am cross posting from solstice forum in case someone doesnt answer over there. I am installing a GNTX-341 mirror with LED map lights, autodim, compass, temperature and homelink.

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I have read the following threads


and I am trying to match the new harness that shipped with the mirror to those on the factory harness with onstar. My harness has:

red +12v hot with ignition on (switched)
black ground
orange +12v hot all the time (constant)
white maplight trigger wire
purple temp sensor
purple temp sensor

I have almost all the wires in this picture (I dont have pin 9 populated, all others match)
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From this thread


Black_out (which I am sure is long gone) posted that he wired the opto22 DC60S3 SSR (which I have also bought) like so:

pole #1: constant power
pole #2: to mirror pin #8
pole #3: constant power (jumper from pole 1)
pole #4: gray wire from bcm

But I am getting confused on how to wire the SSR.

Where do I connect the white wire from my harness after sending the gray wire from the mirror harness to pole 4?
Where do I find 12v constant on the factory harness? Do I need to go to the BCM and if so, where?
Where do I find 12v switched on the factory harness? Do I need to go to the BCM and if so, where?

He sends ground from pole 2 in the SSR to mirror pin 8. Is that to my new mirror harness?

Sorry for the questions, but I am seriously scratching my head on this one. My brain wants to wire this in parallel, that is, the white wire from my harness to pole 4 in the SSR in addition to the gray wire from the BCM.

Thanks again, appreciate the patience y'all
 

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The big question is what IS the white wire on the mirror? Is it a positive supply to the mirror lights? Or is it a switched ground to the mirror lights?

Our cars' factory mirror lights work by having an 'always' on (kind of) 12V supply to the lights on pin6, and then a 'fading' ground on pin1- that's grounded (0v) when the door is open, and 'fades' to high resistance after the door is closed. If your lights are turned on by a switched 12V supply, then you have to use the pin1 wire as a trigger to invert the signal... I assume this is what the SSR is for.

That being the case, terminal 2 on your SSR would be the switched power and would go to the white wire of your mirror (I have no idea what is meant by "pole #2: to mirror pin #8", but you certainly should NOT tie that to the car's mirror connector pin 8, which is ground and will thus burn something up!)

Oh, I should add that that SSR (3amp/60V) is expense overkill for this solution :) Here's a cheaper version I found on Amazon, though note that pin 1 & 2 are reversed (polarity) from the one you show: Amazon.com: Two Way SSR Solid State Relay, 12v Relay Solid State Food Machinery Packaging Machinery CNC Machine Tools Other Automated Control Fields: Home Improvement
 

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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
The big question is what IS the white wire on the mirror? Is it a positive supply to the mirror lights? Or is it a switched ground to the mirror lights?

Our cars' factory mirror lights work by having an 'always' on (kind of) 12V supply to the lights on pin6, and then a 'fading' ground on pin1- that's grounded (0v) when the door is open, and 'fades' to high resistance after the door is closed. If your lights are turned on by a switched 12V supply, then you have to use the pin1 wire as a trigger to invert the signal... I assume this is what the SSR is for.

That being the case, terminal 2 on your SSR would be the switched power and would go to the white wire of your mirror (I have no idea what is meant by "pole #2: to mirror pin #8", but you certainly should NOT tie that to the car's mirror connector pin 8, which is ground and will thus burn something up!)

Oh, I should add that that SSR (3amp/60V) is expense overkill for this solution :) Here's a cheaper version I found on Amazon, though note that pin 1 & 2 are reversed (polarity) from the one you show: Amazon.com: Two Way SSR Solid State Relay, 12v Relay Solid State Food Machinery Packaging Machinery CNC Machine Tools Other Automated Control Fields: Home Improvement
Thanks TS, I have emailed the company that makes this and asked them about the white wire. There is also this page on their manual, which is why I went with the SSR (as well as others saying it chatters a lot without it):
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If you can show more of that manual - specifically what they show as a "type A" circuit - I can tell you right away.
 

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Discussion Starter · #9 ·
The big question is what IS the white wire on the mirror? Is it a positive supply to the mirror lights? Or is it a switched ground to the mirror lights?

Our cars' factory mirror lights work by having an 'always' on (kind of) 12V supply to the lights on pin6, and then a 'fading' ground on pin1- that's grounded (0v) when the door is open, and 'fades' to high resistance after the door is closed. If your lights are turned on by a switched 12V supply, then you have to use the pin1 wire as a trigger to invert the signal... I assume this is what the SSR is for.

That being the case, terminal 2 on your SSR would be the switched power and would go to the white wire of your mirror (I have no idea what is meant by "pole #2: to mirror pin #8", but you certainly should NOT tie that to the car's mirror connector pin 8, which is ground and will thus burn something up!)

Oh, I should add that that SSR (3amp/60V) is expense overkill for this solution :) Here's a cheaper version I found on Amazon, though note that pin 1 & 2 are reversed (polarity) from the one you show: Amazon.com: Two Way SSR Solid State Relay, 12v Relay Solid State Food Machinery Packaging Machinery CNC Machine Tools Other Automated Control Fields: Home Improvement
TS: seller responded. He says "On our mirror harness, the white wire is the switched ground wire to turn on the map lights. The orange wire on the harness is the constant hot positive wire for the mirror".
 

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Do you have a test light? What about a wire with a fuse holder? I suggest testing the function of the white wire with everything else connected, by first connecting it to a chassis ground with the test light. If the test light does not light, or lights only dimly, connect to ground through the fused wire, with a very low amperage fuse installed.

Once you have confirmed the function of the white wire you can risk connecting it to something more valuable than a fuse.
 

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TS: seller responded. He says "On our mirror harness, the white wire is the switched ground wire to turn on the map lights. The orange wire on the harness is the constant hot positive wire for the mirror".
Cool. Then this is the same way our cars work (more or less the type A circuit in your earlier post) and you should not need the SSR at all, unless you get flickering when the circuit 'dims'. Just connect the white wire from the mirror to the pin.1 (GY) wire on the car-side connector.

If you DO get flickering, then we'll revisit the SSR.

As others said on another recent thread, you will not have the switched (accessory) 12V line to the mirror in our cars. You can try just connecting both wires from the mirror (red+orange) to pin 6 on the car-side connector - at least for initial testing. Then - hopefully - you can rely on the BCM anti-drain circuitry to switch off the power 10-15mins after you leave/lock the car. However, if the mirror pulls too much current to let that kick in, THEN you'll need to run an 'accessory' supply up from the BCM. Again, we can revisit from where if you need it.
 

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Discussion Starter · #12 ·
Cool. Then this is the same way our cars work (more or less the type A circuit in your earlier post) and you should not need the SSR at all, unless you get flickering when the circuit 'dims'. Just connect the white wire from the mirror to the pin.1 (GY) wire on the car-side connector.

If you DO get flickering, then we'll revisit the SSR.

As others said on another recent thread, you will not have the switched (accessory) 12V line to the mirror in our cars. You can try just connecting both wires from the mirror (red+orange) to pin 6 on the car-side connector - at least for initial testing. Then - hopefully - you can rely on the BCM anti-drain circuitry to switch off the power 10-15mins after you leave/lock the car. However, if the mirror pulls too much current to let that kick in, THEN you'll need to run an 'accessory' supply up from the BCM. Again, we can revisit from where if you need it.
Thank you. I'll test and report back in case we need to revisit the SSR.
 

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Discussion Starter · #13 ·
Cool. Then this is the same way our cars work (more or less the type A circuit in your earlier post) and you should not need the SSR at all, unless you get flickering when the circuit 'dims'. Just connect the white wire from the mirror to the pin.1 (GY) wire on the car-side connector.

If you DO get flickering, then we'll revisit the SSR.

As others said on another recent thread, you will not have the switched (accessory) 12V line to the mirror in our cars. You can try just connecting both wires from the mirror (red+orange) to pin 6 on the car-side connector - at least for initial testing. Then - hopefully - you can rely on the BCM anti-drain circuitry to switch off the power 10-15mins after you leave/lock the car. However, if the mirror pulls too much current to let that kick in, THEN you'll need to run an 'accessory' supply up from the BCM. Again, we can revisit from where if you need it.
TS,

wired it in and it flickers/chatters bad. Any ideas on the SSR?
 

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TS,

wired it in and it flickers/chatters bad. Any ideas on the SSR?
I presume this happens only when the door has been closed and the light is turning off? Once off does it continue to 'chatter'?
 

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I presume this happens only when the door has been closed and the light is turning off? Once off does it continue to 'chatter'?
This sounds crazy even as I ask it, but would a zener diode work in this application?
 

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Discussion Starter · #16 ·
I presume this happens only when the door has been closed and the light is turning off? Once off does it continue to 'chatter'?
Correct, once the light starts dimming it chatters. Once fully off looks like its fully off. The garage isnt as dark so I cant really tell, but I will check again later tonight once its pitch black and report back (again)
 

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Discussion Starter · #17 ·
This sounds crazy even as I ask it, but would a zener diode work in this application?
I thought that's what the solid state relay was for? I just went off based on the research on this and the sol forums, looks like the few that have used the opto22 SSR have had good results, so thats the route I went.
 

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I thought that's what the solid state relay was for? I just went off based on the research on this and the sol forums, looks like the few that have used the opto22 SSR have had good results, so thats the route I went.
It is. The mechanical relay that is in the mirror chatters as the voltage drops during the dimming, but an SSR switches off cleanly when the vltage drops to a certain point. A zener, if it worked, would be both simpler and cheaper.

Another altenative that occurs to me would be to remove the relay from the mirror and re-wire it to have the lights controlled directly by the BCM.

The advantage of going with the proven solution is just that: It is already proven to work and you don't have to mess with it.
 

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Discussion Starter · #19 ·
It is. The mechanical relay that is in the mirror chatters as the voltage drops during the dimming, but an SSR switches off cleanly when the vltage drops to a certain point. A zener, if it worked, would be both simpler and cheaper.

Another altenative that occurs to me would be to remove the relay from the mirror and re-wire it to have the lights controlled directly by the BCM.

The advantage of going with the proven solution is just that: It is already proven to work and you don't have to mess with it.
Appreciate the input John.
 

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OK, then in this case (in theory), your particular SSR should be wired:

pole #1: (output+) white mirror maplight trigger
pole #2: (output-) car mirror connector pin 8 - black wire (ground)
pole #3: (input+) car mirror connector pin 6 - blue/wht (12V power)
pole #4: (input-) car mirror connector pin 1 - grey wire (sw.ground)

Hopefully, the SSR will have enough hysteresis to stop the chatter. Of course, I take no responsibility if your mirror, car or house goes up in smoke!
 
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