I drove from home a hour to work.. Just got my sky Saturday. Right before I arrived the car started making a terrible noise and the gear shift was shaking bad. It suddenly stopped both. I drove on a quarter of a mile to work. I parked and when I put gear shift in park it sort of slide right into park " not as it normally does" . It didn't change the light from the D to P. At this time I was going to shift back to the D . Gear shift would not move. Not knowing what to do I turned the car off was going to restart it and try again to move the shifter. Car won't start and shifter won't move. I have today search to find the override button. I had to get a hour ride home and getting a rental today when I get back to car location I will try to override the gears. Do you have any idea what could have been making the horrible sound and gearshift shake and for it to lock done. As I see my only option is having the car tolled if it won't start, maybe even if it starts to prevent more damage to a shop. Thank you
Vickie
- Just got my sky Saturday. Who or where did you buy it from?
Major dealer, sorta of a minor dealer or private party seller?
What were the conditions of the sale from the seller?
As is? 3 months or 3,000 miles warranty? They should be responsible for the repairs and
maybe the towing inconvenience. I doubt they will pay for the rental car charges, but maybe.
- Loud noise. Sounds mechanical in nature. Broken linkage to the shifter, or maybe a bad universal joint.
A transmission shop closest to your work location should be able to find what is wrong with it.
What that will cost and how long the repair takes is another question.
- Car won't start. IF the car is still in drive as far as the transmission goes, and not in Park position, I do believe it won't start in the drive only mode.
- I will try to override the gears. I wouldn't force anything at this point. Call a local tow truck service near your work, a flat bed roll back, and have them move it to the transmission shop that you have chosen.
Depending on the current mileage on the car - and not knowing any previous Maintenace history done to the car, specifically the transmission if that is the problem, let an experienced mechanic look at it.
It might be a minor thing, and maybe the cost won't be too bad. The inconvenience to you having it break down like this - less than a week after purchase can be hashed out after the repair is completed with the seller.
IF the seller- IS going to cover the cost of the repair & tow/ rental car charges they might want to have their mechanics to look at it - forcing them to tow the car an hour to where you bought the car from IF you bought the car local to your home area.
Documented paperwork fine print from the seller is important, unless this was from a private seller.
IF the seller is not... going to cover the costs associated with this repair, you will have to incur
all the costs to get the car back on the road, and then this could be a legal matter to look into.
I would look into a good roadside service company contract, AAA or like company for any future driving to work. Once the problem is solved then I would have to car looked over by a 2nd source mechanic for any unseen problems that you the buyer might be unaware of, that might need attention to now or in the future.
Major car repairs can be expensive. If the mechanic finds something unsafe on the car and it
needs to be addressed now- it will come out of your pocket but could be held against the original seller.
Again, this could be a legal matter against the seller maybe.
LAC
Major dealer, sorta of a minor dealer or private party seller?
What were the conditions of the sale from the seller?
As is? 3 months or 3,000 miles warranty? They should be responsible for the repairs and
maybe the towing inconvenience. I doubt they will pay for the rental car charges, but maybe.
- Loud noise. Sounds mechanical in nature. Broken linkage to the shifter, or maybe a bad universal joint.
A transmission shop closest to your work location should be able to find what is wrong with it.
What that will cost and how long the repair takes is another question.
- Car won't start. IF the car is still in drive as far as the transmission goes, and not in Park position, I do believe it won't start in the drive only mode.
- I will try to override the gears. I wouldn't force anything at this point. Call a local tow truck service near your work, a flat bed roll back, and have them move it to the transmission shop that you have chosen.
Depending on the current mileage on the car - and not knowing any previous Maintenace history done to the car, specifically the transmission if that is the problem, let an experienced mechanic look at it.
It might be a minor thing, and maybe the cost won't be too bad. The inconvenience to you having it break down like this - less than a week after purchase can be hashed out after the repair is completed with the seller.
IF the seller- IS going to cover the cost of the repair & tow/ rental car charges they might want to have their mechanics to look at it - forcing them to tow the car an hour to where you bought the car from IF you bought the car local to your home area.
Documented paperwork fine print from the seller is important, unless this was from a private seller.
IF the seller is not... going to cover the costs associated with this repair, you will have to incur
all the costs to get the car back on the road, and then this could be a legal matter to look into.
I would look into a good roadside service company contract, AAA or like company for any future driving to work. Once the problem is solved then I would have to car looked over by a 2nd source mechanic for any unseen problems that you the buyer might be unaware of, that might need attention to now or in the future.
Major car repairs can be expensive. If the mechanic finds something unsafe on the car and it
needs to be addressed now- it will come out of your pocket but could be held against the original seller.
Again, this could be a legal matter against the seller maybe.
LAC
Hi My car is still setting. I assumed because the light on the D is lite up when I turn the car on that it possibly things it's in drive. Truly I'm guessing. Finally found out the overdrive button is located " I think I'm correct" under the shifter . Saw video to pop panel out by sticking finger in and pull. I have tried this and can't pull it. I'm afraid I will break it or tare the material. The car had been a toy that belonged to my boyfriend that passed away. I'm going to buy from his son. He works out of state and plans to be home this weekend for an extended weekend. He really doesn't know many details concerning the car and actually neither do I. Title and insurance is still in his name, he possibly has the toll coverage, hopefully. We will get together in a day or two. Have it tolled locally to a shop recommended by person I'm familiar with in town where car is located. As for the repair expense concerning the two of us at this time is an open subject. I do need to locate the override for getting the car in neutral . Thank you very much for all of the information.
Yes, the fake chrome cover over the shift lever is plastic, a breakable item.
It can be replaced later for a smallish cost to you, after getting the car repaired.
A small flat bladed screwdriver, or strong plastic pry piece will be able to slide
under the chrome cover, which I believe has 4 tabs holding it in place to pop the
cover free from the console.
Once removed, you can move the shifter boot cover up some, around the shift lever.
There is a metal piece, on the shifter than can be depressed, or pulled up releasing
the shifter to move it freely to the Park location. Then you might be able to start the car.
This will be usefully- to move the shifter back later, to the neutral position so the flat bed
tow truck driver can winch the car up, and secure it, before taking to the shop.
With the cover plate off- allows a look at the shifter mechanism itself to see if anything
is broken there, but I doubt that is the issue. The loud bang and the vibration lead me to
believe something major has broken - this could be several things.
If the problem is within the transmission itself is unknown at this point.
If the problem is not within the transmission - is a good thing, as internal transmission
repairs can be expensive. It might be external item however, like a universal joint or the
driveshaft, the shifter linkage on transmission under the car itself maybe a transmission
brace or bracket has moved or broken - I'm not sure at this point.
Hopefully the son can help you figure something out before taking it to the shop
as to what the issue might be? Maybe the two of you can - work together on
splitting the costs for the tow charges or repairs after the shop has given you
an estimate on what it will take to get the car back in working order.
The forum here has a great many members who have a wealth of real world
knowledge about this car. Hopefully a few of them will chime in at some
point - to guide you and the son for solutions to resolve this issue.
Since we don't know what this issue is exactly is at this point, it's hard
to offer any advice to help you right now. IF you & the son, can get it to
the local shop nearby - then post back here to what they say is wrong
with it - then our members might be able to determine a course of action.
LAC
It can be replaced later for a smallish cost to you, after getting the car repaired.
A small flat bladed screwdriver, or strong plastic pry piece will be able to slide
under the chrome cover, which I believe has 4 tabs holding it in place to pop the
cover free from the console.
Once removed, you can move the shifter boot cover up some, around the shift lever.
There is a metal piece, on the shifter than can be depressed, or pulled up releasing
the shifter to move it freely to the Park location. Then you might be able to start the car.
This will be usefully- to move the shifter back later, to the neutral position so the flat bed
tow truck driver can winch the car up, and secure it, before taking to the shop.
With the cover plate off- allows a look at the shifter mechanism itself to see if anything
is broken there, but I doubt that is the issue. The loud bang and the vibration lead me to
believe something major has broken - this could be several things.
If the problem is within the transmission itself is unknown at this point.
If the problem is not within the transmission - is a good thing, as internal transmission
repairs can be expensive. It might be external item however, like a universal joint or the
driveshaft, the shifter linkage on transmission under the car itself maybe a transmission
brace or bracket has moved or broken - I'm not sure at this point.
Hopefully the son can help you figure something out before taking it to the shop
as to what the issue might be? Maybe the two of you can - work together on
splitting the costs for the tow charges or repairs after the shop has given you
an estimate on what it will take to get the car back in working order.
The forum here has a great many members who have a wealth of real world
knowledge about this car. Hopefully a few of them will chime in at some
point - to guide you and the son for solutions to resolve this issue.
Since we don't know what this issue is exactly is at this point, it's hard
to offer any advice to help you right now. IF you & the son, can get it to
the local shop nearby - then post back here to what they say is wrong
with it - then our members might be able to determine a course of action.
LAC
Thank you, the son had had the vehicles changed paperwork changed to his name, as well as insurance. He works in Ga, I'm in SC. Lucky he has tow coverage on the car. He came home for a few days. I tried getting the plate off around the shifter last week and couldn't. The son got it off however the override button didn't help . Couldn't get it in any other gear and the right light around the D was still lite up. A tow truck picked it up by pulling the back up and putting the front on a tow dolly. Towed it home. Yesterday towed it to a shop in a different town due to a misunderstanding man at shop couldn't even glace at the problem until Thursday week. Son had it towed again to another shop 15 miles.
Thank you . I'm going to follow your choice on the oil & oil filter. I certainly appreciate all your help. I have more questions... When filling with gas, should I add marvel mystery oil or something similar. If so what name brand should I add, how much, how often ? Also does grease need to be loaded underneath into steering and whatever. Just want to get everything possible done so that it's complete newly serviced. Should I have radiator flushed, transmission flushed, brake fluid drained, use sea foam carbon cleaner,Differential oil ? I saw where it said transmission used be flushed if driving in heavy traffic & heavy driving. I drive around two hours total with traffic on interstate and a very busy road to and from work daily. A 40 minute drive one way however traffic general turns into 2 hour drive. I also saw where it said that there is a problem with Dex cool antifreeze that it says to use in the manual and not to use it. Perhaps you can tell me what I need to use and for what referring to my questions if you will please. I'm trying to read up on all of this. I honestly as you have determined know very little about cars. I have learned some over the years. Last month I sat 3 1/2 hours barely off the interstate in pouring rain with my other car broke down arriving home in a tow truck at 3:45 AM. I learned what a CV axle is plus other items that were also broke that holds things together and struts as when axle was removed strut fell to the ground, other one ready to do the same. I know I have overloaded you with questions however as I said I need everything up to date on this car. I have no way of knowing if or when any or all of this has been updated. I had no idea I would be buying this car and never asked question about it, didn't know things to ask anyway. Son has covered repair cost of the above issue. God bless him for doing so. Thank you for any information you will offer.
Do not add anything to your gasoline.
You do not need to grease under your steering wheel.
Your DexCool coolant should be replaced every five years. Radiator flushing is optional but probably not needed.
Brake fluid should be changed when testing says it is needed, but I believe five years is a decent interval.
You do not need to run SeaFoam through your engine.
You do not need to grease under your steering wheel.
Your DexCool coolant should be replaced every five years. Radiator flushing is optional but probably not needed.
Brake fluid should be changed when testing says it is needed, but I believe five years is a decent interval.
You do not need to run SeaFoam through your engine.
So, it was the universal joint and transmission mount that was the problem after all then.
Glad you & the son got that solved.
As to your list of other questions -
I think John has answered most of your questions as to the oil & filter, the DexCool,
brake fluid and adding any additives to your gas or engine oil. The only thing I've used
over the years to my gas, is Lucas fuel injector treatment, to keep the injectors free
from buildup, and for a fine spray pattern.
Maybe three times a year, I'm about to do it soon before the driving season gets underway.
I've not found any grease fittings on our cars, to my knowledge they didn't come with
any fittings from the factory. Occasional I will spray some CRC silicone lube, white
lithium grease to the rubber bushings, to keep the pliable in heat/cold and for their old age.
Seafoam is a no go for me. It is supposed to help with carbon build up on direct injection
motors such as the Redline model on the intake valves. For the base model Sky which has
a sequential port injection method, there still could be carbon build up, but nothing really
works on this unless- the intake valves are cleaned with a proven method of walnut blasting
the carbon build away. Chunks of carbon in the oil and in the turbo internals could be a bad
thing, so an oil change is recommended after use of this product.
The steering rack operation can be checked, if or when you replace the power steering fluid.
Unless there are issues with the rack itself, you should need to worry about it.
It is ok sorta, to overload us with questions for being uninformed about this car.
I've learned a great deal about this car- through other owners here on the forum
and their extensive knowledge about this car.
Thank goodness for the son to help you out- as it sounds like this car had issues
when it was put away 2 years ago. We all want our cars to be reliable and dependable.
But... with any mechanical item, parts do wear out, fluids do degrade, and lack of proper
maintenance by the owner operator can lead to a short life span.
So, you now have a new base line starting point for you at this current mileage on the
odometer for maintenance. As you change fluids or parts on the car going forward,
document them somewhere, for reference sake just in case the odd unknown
mechanic asks you when was the last time this was looked at question.
I do it, for my own personal reference and for the next owner of this car.
It is part of the car history. I had some info about the first owner and any
Maintenace done on my car before I bought it.
Last thing - make sure you as the new owner has a good roadside emergency contract
so you can call them 24/7 if anything goes wrong on the drive to & from work.
You don't want be left stranded or waiting for the son to bail you out from GA on
his next visit. Be prepared. Better to have it, and not need it, then to need it and
not have it.
* I might be able to go out today, for a pre-inspection tour on my car if the weather
holds true. Yesterday some very large farm equipment was here creating some havoc
before the planting season begins shortly. There was a rumble in my driveway long
before I saw them arrive. Rut Roh, I knew what was going to happen. The large green
JD dinosaurs will be back in about two weeks.
After that I can work in relative peace & quiet to the exterior/interior/engine bay spaces.
Happy motoring -
LAC
Glad you & the son got that solved.
As to your list of other questions -
I think John has answered most of your questions as to the oil & filter, the DexCool,
brake fluid and adding any additives to your gas or engine oil. The only thing I've used
over the years to my gas, is Lucas fuel injector treatment, to keep the injectors free
from buildup, and for a fine spray pattern.
Maybe three times a year, I'm about to do it soon before the driving season gets underway.
I've not found any grease fittings on our cars, to my knowledge they didn't come with
any fittings from the factory. Occasional I will spray some CRC silicone lube, white
lithium grease to the rubber bushings, to keep the pliable in heat/cold and for their old age.
Seafoam is a no go for me. It is supposed to help with carbon build up on direct injection
motors such as the Redline model on the intake valves. For the base model Sky which has
a sequential port injection method, there still could be carbon build up, but nothing really
works on this unless- the intake valves are cleaned with a proven method of walnut blasting
the carbon build away. Chunks of carbon in the oil and in the turbo internals could be a bad
thing, so an oil change is recommended after use of this product.
The steering rack operation can be checked, if or when you replace the power steering fluid.
Unless there are issues with the rack itself, you should need to worry about it.
It is ok sorta, to overload us with questions for being uninformed about this car.
I've learned a great deal about this car- through other owners here on the forum
and their extensive knowledge about this car.
Thank goodness for the son to help you out- as it sounds like this car had issues
when it was put away 2 years ago. We all want our cars to be reliable and dependable.
But... with any mechanical item, parts do wear out, fluids do degrade, and lack of proper
maintenance by the owner operator can lead to a short life span.
So, you now have a new base line starting point for you at this current mileage on the
odometer for maintenance. As you change fluids or parts on the car going forward,
document them somewhere, for reference sake just in case the odd unknown
mechanic asks you when was the last time this was looked at question.
I do it, for my own personal reference and for the next owner of this car.
It is part of the car history. I had some info about the first owner and any
Maintenace done on my car before I bought it.
Last thing - make sure you as the new owner has a good roadside emergency contract
so you can call them 24/7 if anything goes wrong on the drive to & from work.
You don't want be left stranded or waiting for the son to bail you out from GA on
his next visit. Be prepared. Better to have it, and not need it, then to need it and
not have it.
* I might be able to go out today, for a pre-inspection tour on my car if the weather
holds true. Yesterday some very large farm equipment was here creating some havoc
before the planting season begins shortly. There was a rumble in my driveway long
before I saw them arrive. Rut Roh, I knew what was going to happen. The large green
JD dinosaurs will be back in about two weeks.
After that I can work in relative peace & quiet to the exterior/interior/engine bay spaces.
Happy motoring -
LAC
Hi Thank you for your information . As far as I know the car had no problems or atleast they were never mentioned to me. I never expected to have this car and never asked Chris questions concerning it before he passed away. He and his son didn't discuss it either. The noise that I heard I think was possibly the differential . The shop is checking the car out to locate the problem as well. I should know after while if that was what the noise came from. I had planned on asking them to change oil in it as well. Above John said no additives to the gas. You however say 3 times a year. Also I'm going to use as John does Castrol oil. 5- 30 . I'm having the shop change oil for me. I'm about to go pickup oil and filter and deliver it to
Sorry, I didn't finish accidentally hit post.. I'm going to take the oil and filter to the shop. I however don't know which Castrol 5- 30 to get. The white jug or the black jug . I also intend having the power steering fluid changed. I saw where it said don't use the Drex cool brake fluid. What kind should I use? As for spraying bushings with CRC, what bushings ? I would really like before I get back in the road to have everything serviced . Expecially since i don't know when everything was serviced last. I do know I was the last person to ride in the car with Chris when he was still able for doing so. PHe never mentioned any problem nor did I notice or hear anything not normal.
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Sorry, either one of them will be fine. They are more of salesmanship on the difference. Again - either one is fine. Are you high milage? If so go with the Edge.
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