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I may not be following correctly but if your looking for traction wouldnt keeping a 245 or 255 and lowering pressure will yield more traction? All said, im eventually looking at 255 or 265 as a personal preference.
Physics wise... lowering pressure will increase the size of the contact patch.

Actual street tire wise... doing so also changes the profile of the tire so you end up with more flex (sloppy steering) and the middle of the tread being lifted (thus hurting traction).

Super soft drag tires? Different set of physics again. Never read up on that, but looking at videos and pics, their soft rubber allows them to flex and maintain contact in ways street tires couldn't. But don't even THINK about turning in a controlled manner on those floppy flexible things. :eek: (hence the weaving and bobbing you see when those cars loose control and crash)
 
Discussion starter · #22 · (Edited)
Here' what I'm going to try:

Front:

TSW Nurburgring, Aluminum, Gunmetal, 19 in. x 9.5 in., 5 x 112mm Bolt Circle, +53m Offset

275/35/19 Michelin Pilot Super Sport Tire

Rear:

TSW Nurburgring, Aluminum, Gunmetal, 19 in. x 10.5 in., 5 x 4.75 in. Bolt Circle, +65m Offset

305/35/19 Mickey Thompson ET Street Radial II Tire

The rears will require drilling a new bolt pattern in the hub and rotor and I will probably just drill a new bolt pattern in the front as well instead of machining out the rim. The front shouldn't require doing anything with the rotor. The rears may also require a small spacer.
 
Small world. I know Fadi and his TTG as well. That post must be long ago or severely mis-informed. Fadi had a 2R UGR kit making 1150whp on 93 octane and 1800whp on VP import.

To get maximum traction in a straight line, you want to have small wheel and big soft side wall tire. The big soft sidewall is able to capture energy like a spring and deliver it to the ground more effectively. Obviously this does not work out as well when you have to make turns because the sidewall "walks" or "rolls over" and makes the car unstable. For cornering you want a stiffer wall tire.
 
305/35/19 Mickey Thompson ET Street Radial II Tire
Sounds good. Having those ********** on the back seems like a great mix between hooking up and keeping the booty from swinging around on ya in curves :thumbs:

While searching for the Mickeys I came up with this review/comparison (he's talking about the Hoosier D.O.T. Drag Radial in comparison to Mickey ET Street Radial):

Run these on my '77 T/A. I've run Mickey ET street in 26/10.5-15 and ET street radials in 275/60-15. These are not better, but different. They're not as fast off the line, but they inspire more confidence due to stability down the track, which translate to similar times. I can get hard into it sooner than with the Micks and that's a good thing. Never drove them to and from the track, so no idea about that.
If your ride feels a bit too sqirley with Micks on, give these a try, you might improve. Whether you should run these or Micks, depends on your car and driving style.
So, at least in that guy's opinion, the Micks hook up better. :thumbs:

Also found:

The Mickey Thompson ET Street is Dead

Guess that article was mistaken? Maybe MT is not producing any more of those models but is still selling out their backstock? Because they're still offered on their web site:

Mickey Thompson Performance Tires & Wheels

Have you thought about the Street S/S?

I'm not sure what you've had on you car before, but the PSSs are no slouch either! :thumbs: That stupidly annoying >CHIRP!< that happened at 40-50% of time when starting to go from a red light completely DISSAPPEARED with them. :D

Man, it'd be a blast to feel how the Mickeys or the Hoosiers hook up! :D I need a bigger garage. :banghead:
 
Discussion starter · #25 · (Edited)
I have the michelin PSS's (345 rear and 295 fronts) on my Z06 with 535rwhp and they're pretty awesome given how long they last. They're definitely not in the category of drag radial but I think it's the best tire out there for real street duty (~300 tread wear category). I still can't hook through much of 1st gear (up to 65mph) but second gear is usually hooking. If the temps drop below 55 then I could probably spin the tires at any speed below 80 if I stomp on it.

Sounds good. Having those ********** on the back seems like a great mix between hooking up and keeping the booty from swinging around on ya in curves :thumbs:

While searching for the Mickeys I came up with this review/comparison (he's talking about the Hoosier D.O.T. Drag Radial in comparison to Mickey ET Street Radial):



So, at least in that guy's opinion, the Micks hook up better. :thumbs:

Also found:

The Mickey Thompson ET Street is Dead

Guess that article was mistaken? Maybe MT is not producing any more of those models but is still selling out their backstock? Because they're still offered on their web site:

Mickey Thompson Performance Tires & Wheels

Have you thought about the Street S/S?

I'm not sure what you've had on you car before, but the PSSs are no slouch either! :thumbs: That stupidly annoying >CHIRP!< that happened at 40-50% of time when starting to go from a red light completely DISSAPPEARED with them. :D

Man, it'd be a blast to feel how the Mickeys or the Hoosiers hook up! :D I need a bigger garage. :banghead:
 
Not sure that going to different makes, construction and compounds front and rear is the best way to get balanced optimal handling. In fact I'm pretty sure it is NOT the best way.

If it isn't a drag car, why not use the Michelin PSS in 305-35-19 on the rear instead.
 
Rear:

TSW Nurburgring, Aluminum, Gunmetal, 19 in. x 10.5 in., 5 x 4.75 in. Bolt Circle, +65m Offset
How did you come up with that width and offset?
My 9" rims with +55 offset and 275 tires had some minor rubbing against the frame. With your rim/offset your bringing the rim another 29mm closer to the frame? Dont think that's going to work.

Here's my 9" rim and 275 tire http://i.imgur.com/kjfvOPT.jpg

And here's my 11" rim with +25 offset and 315 tire http://i.imgur.com/DaWij7O.jpg i can fit my pinky between the frame and tire, that's how close they are to the frame.
There's more space in the front than the back.
 
Discussion starter · #28 · (Edited)
Those are 18's right? I think the 19s had more potential for clearance.

I got the offset from another thread where a guy already tried it with 9.5" rims and didn't seem to have any problems.

How did you come up with that width and offset?
My 9" rims with +55 offset and 275 tires had some minor rubbing against the frame. With your rim/offset your bringing the rim another 29mm closer to the frame? Dont think that's going to work.

Here's my 9" rim and 275 tire http://i.imgur.com/kjfvOPT.jpg

And here's my 11" rim with +25 offset and 315 tire http://i.imgur.com/DaWij7O.jpg i can fit my pinky between the frame and tire, that's how close they are to the frame.
There's more space in the front than the back.
 
Those are 18's right? I think the 19s had more potential for clearance.
I don't see how, its the tire that rubs the frame not the rim.
A 9.5 rim with a +40 to +50 offset will work, but you cant fit a 305 tire under there, there's just no space unless you pull out the fender an inch. My 315 tire sticks out a bit http://i.imgur.com/TfRiA9P.jpg
 
From Shabby on the thread I linked earlier in this thread:

I have their f14 in 18x11 size, it was pretty cheap too for a rim made to my specifications.
Looks like you'll have problems tucking the wheel in that much. I played with the fitment thingy and +30 offset fits for sure (more room than what Shabby had) and +35 MIGHT fit (it's a few pixels tighter than what Shabby used).

http://www.willtheyfit.com/index.ph...h=10.5&offset=+30&width2=315&aspect2=40&diameter2=18&wheelwidth2=11&offset2=+25

edit: found an underside view that shows the frame part in question (red box near the wheel that I highlighted in yellow).
edit 2: fixed the pic to see the parts I highlighted better... sigh
edit 3: added more about playing with the sizing calculator and added links
 

Attachments

Looks like you'll have problems tucking the wheel in that much. I played with the fitment thingy and +30 offset fits for sure (more room than what Shabby had) and +35 MIGHT fit (it's a few pixels tighter than what Shabby used).
Just gotta find out what offset he used.
 
Discussion starter · #36 ·
He doesn't remember which offset he used but he confirmed that no frame modification was needed. He said the offset had to be perfect. I'm going to start with 65mm on the 10.5" rim and space it out as needed, I think it will be really close from the start.
 
Discussion starter · #37 · (Edited)
The pic he posted sticks way out so it doesn't surprise me that it looks like that. I think we'll just have to try it.

One way or another, I'll make them fit.

From Shabby on the thread I linked earlier in this thread:



Looks like you'll have problems tucking the wheel in that much. I played with the fitment thingy and +30 offset fits for sure (more room than what Shabby had) and +35 MIGHT fit (it's a few pixels tighter than what Shabby used).

Online Wheel and Tyre Fitment Calculator. Offset, Tyre Stretch and Speedo Error | Will They Fit

edit: found an underside view that shows the frame part in question (red box near the wheel that I highlighted in yellow).
edit 2: fixed the pic to see the parts I highlighted better... sigh
edit 3: added more about playing with the sizing calculator and added links
 
65 wont work :/

Would 30 or 35 an option? Because using the online too and comparing to what Shabby shared from his real life experience, 30 will work and 35 might work.

Here's all the pics together (green is the 315 with 25 offset and orange is the 305 wheel with various offsets):
 

Attachments

Discussion starter · #39 ·
It will work when I'm done with it. I'll notch the frame if I have to, but I'm not going to have it sticking out of the wheel well.

I'll call HRE when they open and see if they have on record what stenod used.

65 wont work :/

Would 30 or 35 an option? Because using the online too and comparing to what Shabby shared from his real life experience, 30 will work and 35 might work.

Here's all the pics together:
 
The pic he posted sticks way out so it doesn't surprise me that it looks like that. I think we'll just have to try it.

One way or another, I'll make them fit.
Fair enough :) :thumbs: Just trying to help prevent 30mm of shims, longer studs, and any other hassles associated. :banghead:

Edit: Are you sticking to 65 for any particular reason? A size they stock? Just curious. Even if you have no trust in the tools I've been messing with (can't blame ya there, it's literally ONE pixel... who knows how that translates into the real world) how about trying a 40 and then possibly need a small shim?
 
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